Istanbul Guide

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BAZAAR DISTRICT EATING After the Conquest, Mehmet the Con queror built his first palace here, a wooden structure called the Eski Saray ı (Old Se raglio). After Topkap ı was built, the Eski Saray ı became home to women when they were pensioned out of the main palace – this was where valide sultans (mothers of the reigning sultans) came when their sul tan sons died and they lost their powerful position as head of the harem. The origi nal building was demolished in the 19th century to make way for a grandiose Min istry of War complex designed by Auguste Bourgeois; this now houses the university. The 85m-tall Beyaz ı t Tower in its grounds sits on top of one of the seven hills on which Constantine the Great built the city, following the model of Rome. Com missioned by Mahmut II, the stone tower was designed by Senekerim Balyan and built in 1828 in the same location as a pre vious wooden tower. The tower was used by the İ stanbul Fire Department to spot fires until 1993. The coloured lights on it indicate weather conditions – blue for clear and sunny, green for rain, yellow for fog and red for snow. Both the university and tower are off lim its to travellers. BEYAZIT STATE LIBRARY LIBRARY Map p242 (Beyaz ı t Devlet Kütüphanesi; % 0212 522 3167; www.beyazitkutup.gov.tr; Turan Emek siz Sokak 6, Beyaz ı t; h 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri; j Beyaz ı t-Kapal ı Çar ş ı ) Occupying the former imaret (soup kitchen) and kervansaray (caravanserai) of the Beyaz ı t Mosque’s külliye , this library has recently been the subject of a splendid ‘minimal intervention’ restoration and extension by local archi tectural firm Tabanl ı o ğ lu Partnership. The multidomed building dates from 1884 and houses a notable rare-book collection. BEYAZIT MOSQUE MOSQUE Map p242 (Beyaz ı t Camii, Mosque of Sultan Beyaz ı t II; Beyaz ı t Meydan ı , Beyaz ı t; j Beyaz ı t Kapal ı Çar ş ı ) The second imperial mosque built in İ stanbul (after the Fatih Camii), Beyaz ı t Camii was built between 1501 and 1506 by order of Beyaz ı t II, son of Mehmet the Conqueror. Architecturally, it links Aya Sofya, which obviously inspired its design, with great mosques such as the Süleyman kitchen) and kervansaray (caravanserai) complex now functioning as the magnifi cent Beyaz ı t State Library; and a disused double hamam.

iye, which are realisations of Aya Sofya’s design fully adapted to Muslim worship. It was undergoing a major and long-overdue restoration at the time of research. The mosque’s exceptional use of fine stone is noteworthy, with marble, porphy ry, verd antique and rare granite featuring. The mihrab is simple, except for the rich stone columns framing it. The enclosed courtyard features 24 small domes and a central ablutions fountain. Beyaz ı t’s türbe (tomb) is behind the mosque. LALELI MOSQUE MOSQUE Map p242 (cnr Divan Yolu & Fethi Bey Caddesis, Laleli; j Laleli-Üniversite, Aksaray) A baroque style Imperial mosque commissioned by Sultan Mustafa III and built between 1759 and 1763, the Laleli (‘with Tulips’) Camii is a short walk from the Grand Bazaar in a district of clothing stores. The mosque has pretty stained-glass windows, and a shop selling olive-oil products now occupies its lovely street-level sebil (kiosk that once dispensed water or ş erbet , or sherbet). 5 EATING Generations of shoppers have worked up an appetite around the Grand Bazaar. Fortunately there have always been eateries to meet this need, including a range of good lokantas (eateries serving ready-made food) and fast-food stands. Down near the water, there aren’t too many choices – a fish sandwich on the quay at Eminönü, a döner kebap at Bereket Döner in the Küçük Pazar, or a more formal meal at Hamdi Restaurant SWEETS € Map p242 ( % 0212-512 1261; Has ı rc ı lar Caddesi 89, Eminönü; portions ₺ 10-12; h 7am-7pm Mon Sat; j Eminönü) As with many things Turk ish, there’s a ritual associated with eating baklava. Afficionados don’t use a knife and fork. Instead, they turn their baklava up side down with the help of an index finger and thumb, and pop it into the mouth. To emulate them, head to this famous shop close to the Spice Bazaar, one of the city’s best baklavac ı s . The baklava here is made with butter and real sugar (inferior products use glu cose) and it’s absolutely delicious. Try the are your best bets. o DEVELI BAKLAVA