Istanbul Guide

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KURUKAHVECI MEHMET EFENDI COFFEE Map p242 ( % 0212-511 4262; www.mehmet efendi.com; Tahmis Sokak 66, Eminönü; h 8am 8pm Mon-Sat; j Eminönü) Caffeine addicts are regularly spotted queuing outside this flagship store of İ stanbul’s most famous coffee purveyor. Housed on the ground floor of an art-deco building next to the Spice Bazaar, it is best known for its Turk ish-style grind, which it has been produc ing since 1871. VAKKO İ NDIRIM FASHION & ACCESSORIES Map p242 (Vakko Sale Store; Sultan Hamam ı Caddesi 8a, Eminönü; h 10am-6.30pm Mon Sat; j Eminönü) This remainder outlet of İ stanbul’s famous fashion store should be on the itinerary of all bargain hunters. Top quality men’s and women’s clothing – often stuff that’s been designed and made in Italy – is sold here for a fraction of its original price. ARMINE CLOTHING Map p242 ( % 0212-511 2211; www.armine.com; Mahmutpa ş a Yoku ş u 135, Eminönü; h 10am-6pm Mon-Sat; j Eminönü) İ stanbul is a fashion able city with a highly idiosyncratic style. In Bebek and Beyo ğ lu the fashion might be for tight jeans, revealing jackets and chunky jewellery, but in the city’s conserva tive neighbourhoods, there’s little make-up and even less flesh on show. Wildly popu lar Armine is where Zara style meets the headscarf, and it’s an exemplar of afford able Islamic chic. 2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES o ALTERNATIVE CITY TOURS TOUR (www.alternativecitytours.com; tour per group of up to 6 people €150 plus lunch) Having lived in İ stanbul for many years, New York–born photographer Monica Fritz recently made the decision to share some of the many se crets she has learned about the city with fellow shutterbugs. Her informed and en joyable tour portfolio covers the European and Asian shores and beyond, and she provides plenty of cultural and historical context.

Tours include one of the Grand Bazaar that introduces participants to hidden hans (caravanserais) and passageways, as well as taking to the roof à la James Bond in Skyfall . Other unique offerings include a Grand Bazaar scavenger hunt for kids, a tour of the city’s hidden synagogues and a cruise on a private yacht going to the Princes’ Islands or other interesting places along the Bosphorus (the latter costs €350 HAMAM Map p242 ( % 0212-522 7974; www.cemberlitas hamami.com; Vezir Han Caddesi 8, Çemberlita ş ; self-service ₺ 70, bath, scrub & soap massage ₺ 115; h 6am-midnight; j Çemberlita ş ) There won’t be too many times in your life when you’ll get the opportunity to have a Turkish bath in a building dating back to 1584, so now might well be the time to do it – par ticularly as this twin hamam was designed by the great architect Sinan and is among the most beautiful in the city. The building was commissioned by Nur banu Sultan, wife of Selim II and mother of Murat III. Both of its bath chambers have a huge marble s ı cakl ı k (circular marble heat platform) and a gorgeous dome with glass apertures. The camekan (entrance hall) for men is original, but the women’s ver sion is new. It costs ₺ 75 to add an oil massage to the standard bath package, but all massages and treatments here are perfunctory, so we’d suggest giving this a miss and opt ing for the cheaper self-serve option. Tips are meant to be covered in the treatment price and there’s a 20% discount for ISIC HAMAM Map p242 ( % 0212-517 8956; www.gedikpasa hamami.com; Emin Sinan Hamam ı Sokak 61, Gedikpa ş a; bath, scrub & soap massage ₺ 80; h 6am-midnight; j Çemberlita ş ) This Otto man-era hamam has been operating since 1475. Its shabby interior isn’t as beautiful as those at Çemberlita ş (p111) and Ca ğ alo ğ lu (p90), but services are cheaper and there are separate hamams, small dipping pools and saunas for both sexes. The operators will sometimes transport guests to and from Sultanahmet hotels at no charge – ask your hotel to investigate this option. for up to seven people). ÇEMBERLITA Ş HAMAMI student-card holders. GEDIKPA Ş A HAMAMI

BAZAAR DISTRICT SPORTS & ACTIVITIES