Istanbul Guide

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in 1698. The oldest yalı on the Bosphorus, it is currently undergoing a major renova tion. Next door, the Zarif Mustafa Paşa Yalı (Map p162; Anadolu Hisarı; g 15, 15KÇ & 15ŞN from Üsküdar, 15F from Kadıköy) was built in the early 19th century by the official barista to Sultan Mahmut II. Look for its upstairs salon, which juts out over the water and is supported by unusual curved timber struts. Almost directly under the Fatih Bridge on the European shore is the huge stone four storey Tophane Müşiri Zeki Paşa Yalı (Map p162; Rumeli Hisarı; g 22 & 25E from Kabataş, 22RE & 40 from Beşiktaş, 40, 40T & 42T from Tak sim) , a mansion built in the early 20th centu ry for a field marshall in the Ottoman army. Later, it was sold to Sabiha Sultan, daughter of Mehmet VI, the last of the Ottoman sul tans, and her husband İmer Faruk Efendi, grandson of Sultan Abdül Aziz. When the sultanate was abolished in 1922, Mehmet walked from this palace onto a British war ship, never to return to Turkey. Past the bridge on the Asian side is Kanlıca , the ferry’s next stop. This charming village is famous for the rich and delicious yoghurt produced here, which is sold on the ferry and in two cafes on the shady water front square. The small Gâzi İskender Paşa Mosque (Map p162; Kanlıca; f Kanlıca) in the square dates from 1560 and was designed by Mimar Sinan. There are excellent views of a number of yalıs as the ferry arrives and departs here. High on a promontory above Kanlıca is Hıdiv Kasrı (Khedive’s Villa; Map p162; www.bel tur.com.tr; Çubuklu Yolu 32, Çubuklu; h 9am-10pm; f Kanlıca) F , a palatial art-nouveau villa built in 1906. You can see its square white tower (often flying a Turkish flag) from the ferry. The property is known as the Khedive’s Villa (Hıdiv Kasrı) in reference to the man who commissioned it, Khedive Abbas Hilmi II, hıdiv (khedive or viceroy) of Egypt. The khedives maintained close ties with the Ot toman Empire and many spent summers in İstanbul to escape the debilitating Egyptian heat. This villa functioned as one of their summer residences until the 1930s. Restored after decades of neglect, the villa now func tions as a restaurant and cafe. The building is an architectural gem and the garden is superb, especially during the İstanbul Inter national Tulip Festival in April. The villa is a 20-minute walk from the iskele (ferry dock) at Kanlıca. Head left (north) up Halide Edip Adivar Caddesi and turn right into the sec ond street (Kafadar Sokak). Turn left into Day Trips THE BOSPHORUS

Hacı Muhittin Sokağı and walk up the hill until you come to a fork in the road. Take the left fork and follow the ‘Hadiv Kasrı’ signs to the villa’s car park and garden. 1 Kanlıca to Sarıyer On the shore opposite Kanlıca is the wealthy suburb of Emirgan, home to the impressive Sakıp Sabancı Museum (Map p162; % 0212 277 2200; www.sakipsabancimuzesi.org; Sakıp Sabancı Caddesi 42, Emirgan; adult/student/ child under 14yr ₺20/10/free, Wed free; h 10am 5.30pm Tue, Thu & Fri-Sun, to 7.30pm Wed; g 22 & 25E from Kabataş, 22RE & 40 from Beşiktaş, 40, 40T & 42T from Taksim) . This museum has a permanent collection showcasing Otto man manuscripts and calligraphy, but is best known for its blockbuster temporary exhibitions. The permanent collection oc cupies a 1925 mansion designed by Italian architect Edouard De Nari for the Egyptian Prince Mehmed Ali Hasan and the tempo rary exhibitions are staged in an impressive modern extension designed by local firm Savaş, Erkel and Çırakoğlu. On the hill above Emirgan is Emirgan Korusu (Woods ), a huge public reserve that is particularly beautiful in April, when it is carpeted with thousands of tulips. North of Emirgan, there’s a ferry dock near the small yacht-lined cove of İstinye . Nearby, on a point jutting out from the Eu ropean shore, is the suburb of Yeniköy . This was a favourite summer resort for the Ot tomans, as indicated by the cluster of lav ish 18th- and 19th-century yalıs around the ferry dock. The most notable of these is the frilly white Ahmed Afif Paşa Yalı (Map p162; Yeniköy; g 25E from Kabataş, 40B from Beşiktaş, 40T & 42T from Taksim) , designed by Alexandre Vallaury, architect of the Pera Palas Hotel in Beyoğlu, and built in the late 19th century. On the opposite shore is the village of Paşabahçe , famous for its glassware fac tory. A bit further on is the fishing village of Beykoz , which has a graceful ablutions fountain, the İshak Ağa Çeşmesi , dating from 1746, near the village square. Much of the land along the Bosphorus shore north of Beykoz is a military zone. Originally called Therapia for its healthy climate, the little cove of Tarabya on the European shore has been a favourite sum mer watering place for İstanbul’s well-to-do for centuries, though modern developments such as the multistorey Grand Hotel Tara