Istanbul Guide

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SÜTIŞ CAFE € Map p162 ( % 0212-323 5030; www.sutis.com.tr; Sakıp Sabancı Caddesi 1, Emirgan; breakfast dishes ₺5-26, milk puddings ₺10; h 6am-2am; paWc ; g 22 & 25E from Kabataş, 22RE & 40 from Beşiktaş, 40, 40T & 42T from Taksim) The Bosphorus branch of this popular chain has an expan sive and comfortable terrace overlooking the water. It’s known for all-day breakfasts and its huge range of sweet treats. We recom mend a simit (sesame-encrusted bread ring) with bal kaymak (honey and clotted cream; ₺10) in the morning and a muhallebisi (milk pudding) in the afternoon. Watching the va let parking ritual on weekends is hilarious. LOKMA INTERNATIONAL €€ Map p162 ( % 0212-265 7171; www.lokma.com.tr; Yahya Kemal Caddesi 18, Rumeli Hisarı; breakfast dishes ₺6.50-14.50, pizzas ₺17.50-27, burgers ₺18-28; h 6am-midnight; Wc ; g 22 & 25E from Kabataş, 22RE & 40 from Beşiktaş, 40, 40T & 42T from Taksim) Enjoying brunch in Rumeli Hisarı is a popular pastime, so this newcom er to the main drag has no problems filling its 300-odd seats on weekends. The huge ter race (glassed-in during the winter months) with its Bosphorus view is a great spot to enjoy börek or eggs at breakfast; pizzas and burgers are the rule at lunch. No alcohol. KIYI SEAFOOD €€€ Map p162 ( % 0212-262 0002; Haydar Aliyev Cad desi 186, Tarabya; mezes ₺12-30, mains from ₺40; h midday-midnight; g 22, 25E & 29C from Kabataş, 22RE & 40 from Beşiktaş, 40, 40T & 42T from Tak sim) Named after a species of freshwater whitefish, this large and often boisterous restaurant has been serving excellent sea food to locals since the 1960s and remains popular with many of the city’s movers and shakers. In summer, the upstairs terrace is the place to be; during winter the action moves into the art-adorned dining room. Menu items are standard but delicious. ANTICA LOCANDA ITALIAN €€€ Map p162 ( % 0212-287 9745; www.antical ocanda.com.tr; Satış Meydanı 12, Arnavutköy; starters ₺20-40, mains ₺36-70; h 6.30-10pm Tue, noon-2pm & 6.30-10pm Wed-Sat, noon-2pm Sun; pavc ; g 22, 22RE & 25E from Kabataş, 40, 40T & 42T from Taksim) Milanese-born chef Gian Carlo Talerico and his Turkish wife Beldan Erkkul converted this former residence of the Aya Strati Taksiarhi Greek Orthodox Church complex into an elegant trattoria in 2011. They keep a loyal coterie Day Trips THE GOLDEN HORN

of locals happy with takes on classic Italian dishes including grills, pastas and pizzas. TAPASUMA MODERN TURKISH €€€ Map p162 ( % 0216-401 1333; www.tapasuma.com; Kuleli Caddesi 43, Çengelköy; mezes ₺14-35, mains ₺49-85; h 11.30am-midnight; a ; g 15, 15E, 15H, 15KÇ, 15M, 15N, 15P, 15ŞN, 15T, 15U from Üsküdar) Set in a restored 19th-century rakı distill ery ( suma is a Turkish word meaning ‘un adulterated spirit’), this stylish restaurant is attached to the luxury Sumahan on the Water hotel and has a stunning waterside location. The menu features Turkish mezes with a modern twist, as well as fresh seafood mains. Sadly, service standards don’t match the hefty prices. MÜZEDECHANGA MODERN TURKISH €€€ Map p162 ( % 0212-323 0901; www.changa- istanbul.com; Sakıp Sabancı Müzesi, Sakıp Sabancı Caddesi 42, Emirgan; starters ₺35-48, mains ₺65 85; h 10.30am-midnight Tue-Sun; aWv ; g 22 & 25E from Kabataş, 22RE & 40 from Beşiktaş, 40, 40T & 42T from Taksim) A glamorous terrace with Bosphorus views is the main draw of this design-driven restaurant at the Sakıp Sabancı Museum. Sadly, the overpriced menu offerings look better than they taste. If you don’t feel like visiting the museum, door staff will waive the entry fee and point you towards the restaurant. LUCCA BAR Map p162 ( % 0212-257 1255; www.luccastyle.com; Cevdetpaşa Caddesi 51b, Bebek; h 10am-2am; g 22, 22B & 25E from Kabataş, 22RE & 40 from Beşiktaş, 40, 40T & 42T from Taksim) Embraced by the in-crowd since 2005, Lucca’s star shows no sign of waning. Glam young things flock here on Friday and Saturday nights to see and be seen, but the mood is more relaxed during the week. Food choices are global; coffee reigns supreme during the day; and cocktails claim the spotlight at night. The Golden Horn Explore You can explore the Haliç (Golden Horn) in half a day by boarding the commuter ferry in Karaköy or Eminönü, alighting once at ei