Istanbul Guide

179

Where to Stay

NEIGHBOURHOOD FOR

AGAINST

Sultanahmet & Around

Most of the major monuments and muse ums are located here, so it’s convenient for sightseeing; a handy tram service travels to Beyoğlu. You’ll be close to the shopping action in the Grand Bazaar and within walking dis tance of the major sights in Sultanahmet. This part of town is mainly residential, so you’ll get a real feel for local life. Prices in eateries and shops are considerably lower than in the tourist areas. The best bars, restaurants and clubs are here, as is the greatest concentration of boutique hotels and apartment rentals. Tram and metro services connect it with the Historic Peninsula, and the ritzy shopping and residential suburbs to its northeast. The city’s best produce market is located here, making it great for self-caterers; loads of bars and restaurants; lovely ferry ride, or a quick metro trip, to the Old City. Rooms and restaurants overlooking the water are romantic, and there’s something magical about hopping aboard hotel launches to criss cross the Bosphorus.

Carpet touts can be annoying, but the biggest drawback is the lack of decent places to eat and drink.

Bazaar District

Many streets are deserted at night and on Sundays, so security can be an issue. Most restaurants and cafes only operate during the day. Public transport is limited, so you’ll have to rely on buses and taxis to get to other neighbourhoods. Eating and drinking options are also limited. Lots of bars and nightclubs mean the streets around İstiklal Caddesi and in Cihangir and Karaköy can be noisy. Streets around the market can be noisy in the morning and at night; you’re dependent on public transport and taxis to explore the city. The distance from the Historic Penin sula is considerable, so the trip back to your hotel can be tiring after a full day of sightseeing. Eating and drink ing choices can be limited.

Western Districts

Beyoğlu

Sleeping SULTANAHMET & AROUND

Kadıköy

Beşiktaş, Nişantaşi & Ortaköy

very clean, and there are plenty of ameni ties. The roof terrace is one of the best in this area, with great sea views, comfortable indoor and outdoor seating, and free tea and coffee. o MARMARA GUESTHOUSE PENSION € Map p240 ( % 0212-638 3638; www.marmaraguest house.com; Terbıyık Sokak 15, Cankurtaran; d €65-85, tr €80-100, f €95-115; naW ; j Sul tanahmet) Few of Sultanahmet’s family-run pensions can compete with the cleanliness, comfort and thoughtful details here. The team goes out of is way to welcome guests, offering advice and serving a delicious breakfast on the vine-covered, sea-facing roof terrace. Rooms have four-poster beds with Turkish hangings, good bathrooms (small in some cases) and double-glazed windows. Members of the same family op erate the similarly impressive Saruhan Ho tel (p182) in the predominantly residential pocket of Kadırga.

4 Sultanahmet & Around o HOTEL ŞEBNEM HOTEL € Map p240 ( % 0212-517 6623; www.sebnemhotel. net; Adliye Sokak 1, Cankurtaran; s €50, d €70-80, tr €90, f €110; naiW ; j Sultanahmet) An appealing sense of simplicity and intimacy pervades the Şebnem. Antiques dot the 15 smart rooms, which have wooden floors, modern bathrooms and comfortable beds; two have a private courtyard garden. The large terrace upstairs has a cafe-bar and HOTEL € Map p240 ( % 0212-517 7067; www.alpguest house.com; Adliye Sokak 4, Cankurtaran; s/d €55/80; naW ; j Sultanahmet) This wooden building lives up to its location in Sultanah met’s premier small-hotel enclave, offering attractive, well-priced single, double, triple and family rooms. Bathrooms are small but views over the Sea of Marmara. o HOTEL ALP GUESTHOUSE