Istanbul Guide

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under its Terra and Leona labels (try the Terra öküzgözü ) are notable. In recent years Thrace has become a wine-making hotspot. The vintages that are being released from estates such as Arcadia (www.arcadiavineyards.com) , Barbare (www.barbarewines.com) , Suvla (www.suvla. com.tr ) and Gali (www.gali.com.tr) are well worth sampling. The standout Aegean wineries are Urla (www.urlasarapcilik.com.tr) , Corvus (www.corvus.com.tr) and Sevilen (http:// sevilengroup.com) . If you get the chance, sample Urla’s Vourla red blend, Sevilen’s late-harvest misket (muscat) and Corvus’ Corpus red blend and passito. Nargiles While in town, consider visiting a çay bahçesi (tea garden). These atmosphere rich venues are frequented by locals who don’t drink alcohol, but enjoy smoking nargiles (water pipes). When ordering a nargile, you’ll need to specify what type of tobacco you would like. Most people opt for elma (when the tobacco has been soaked in apple juice, giving it a sweet flavour and scent), but it’s possible to order it unadulterated ( tömbeki ). A nargile will cost between ₺2 0 and ₺ 30 and can be shared; you’ll be given individual plastic mouthpieces. Drinking & Nightlife by Neighbourhood  Sultanahmet & Around (p84) A limited choice of cafes and çay bahçesis (tea gardens), but a few bars worth considering.  Bazaar District (p106) An atmospheric array of çay bahçesis and nargile cafes, but no nightlife of which to speak.  Beyoğlu (p140) The city’s entertainment hub, with hundreds of bars, cafes and clubs from which to choose.  Beşiktaş, Nişantaşi & Ortaköy (p153) A string of upmarket cafes, bars and clubs alongside the Bosphorus.  Kadıköy (p159) A vibrant cafe and bar scene.

NEED TO KNOW Opening Hours  Opening hours of cafes, çay bahçesis (tea gardens), bars and clubs vary wildly; we have included specific hours in our reviews.  Clubs are busiest on Friday and Satur day nights, and the action doesn’t really kick off until 1am. Cover charges are levied at many clubs on these nights.  Many Beyoğlu clubs close from June or July until the end of September. Most of the Bosphorus clubs close for part of winter. Dress Code When İstanbullus go out clubbing, they dress to kill. If you don’t do the same, you’ll be unlikely to get past the door staff at the Bosphorus clubs or into the rooftop bars and clubs in Beyoğlu. Fortu nately, what you’re wearing won’t affect entry at the live-music venues, meyhanes (taverns) or grungier clubs. Nightlife Rip-Offs Foreigners, especially single foreign males, are sometimes targets for a classic İstanbul rip-off whereby they are approached by a friendly local, or group of locals, who asks them if they would like to visit a bar or nightclub. Unfortunately these guys are luring their victims into places run by organised crime groups, where drinks and the company of host esses cost an absolute fortune and where refusing to pay the bill can lead to nasty, often physical confrontations. Be very wary of any such invitations. Where to Party The superclubs in the Golden Mile between Ortaköy and Kuruçeşme on the Bosphorus attract the wealthy and celebrity obsessed. Bohemian types tend to gravitate to the venues in Beyoğlu’s Karaköy, Cihangir, Asmalımescit and Nevizade enclaves. Students hang out on or near Balo Sokak in Beyoğlu, or head over to Kadıköy, where they can be found drinking, dancing and listening to live gigs on Kadife Sokak, aka Barlar Sokak (Bar St).

PLAN YOUR TRIP DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE