Istanbul Guide

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centuries-old marketplaces are magnifi cent Ottoman mosques, historic hamams and atmospheric çay bahçesis (tea gardens) where locals smoke nargiles (water pipes) and play games of tavla (backgammon). The streets between the bazaars are a popular stamping ground for İstanbullus, and seem to crackle with a good-humoured and infectious energy. 3 Western Districts p112 A showcase of İstanbul’s ethnically di verse and endlessly fascinating history, this neighbourhood to the west of the Historic Peninsula contains synagogues built by the Jews in Balat and churches constructed by the Greeks in Fener. In recent times migrants from eastern Tur key have settled here, attracted by the vi brant Wednesday street market in Fatih and the presence of two important Islam ic pilgrimage sites: the tombs of Mehmet the Conqueror and Ebu Eyüp el-Ensari.

4 Beyoğlu p 123 The high-octane hub of eating, drinking and entertainment in the city, Beyoğlu is where visitors and locals come in search of good restaurants and bars, live-music venues, hip hotels and edgy boutiques. Built around the major boulevard of İstiklal Caddesi, it incorporates a mix of bohemian residential districts such as Çukurcuma and Cihangir, bustling enter tainment enclaves such as Asmalımescit and historically rich pockets such as Tophane, Galata and Karaköy that have morphed into style centres. Nineteenth-century French writer Pierre Loti described the stretch of the Bospho rus shore between Beşiktaş and Ortaköy as featuring ‘a line of palaces white as snow, placed at the edge of the sea on marble docks’. Fortunately, his descrip tion remains as accurate as it is evoca tive. North of this palace precinct is the ‘Golden Mile’, a string of upmarket nightclubs running between Ortaköy and Kuruçeşme. These once-humble fishing villages are now pockets of prime water front real estate. Inland, join the İstanbul glitterati as they shop, dine and party in chichi Nişantaşı. 6 Kadıköy p 155 In recent years, locals have been decamp ing from the European side of town to Asia in ever-increasing numbers, setting up home in the suburbs that are strung south from the Bosphorus Bridge. Of these, bustling Kadıköy and its annex Moda are of the most interest to visitors, being home to İstanbul’s best produce market, great eateries, convivial cafes, grunge bars and a progressive vibe. 5 Beşiktaş, Nişantaşı & Ortaköy p 147

NEIGHBOURHOODS AT A GLANCE 

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1 1 66 66 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 HAYDARPA Ş A SEL İ M İ YE # 6 D Kad ı köy Produce Market (700m) 1 1 1