Istanbul Guide

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Harem’s eunuch guards were stationed. This is decorated with fine Kütahya tiles from the 17th century. Adjoining this is the Mosque of the Black Eunuchs , which features depictions of Mecca on its 17th-century tiles. Beyond is the narrow Courtyard of the Black Eunuchs , also decorated with Kütahya tiles. Behind the marble colonnade on the left are the Black Eunuchs’ Dormitories . In the early days white eunuchs were used, but black eunuchs sent as presents by the Ottoman governor of Egypt later took control. As many as 200 lived here, guarding the doors and waiting on the women of the Harem. At the far end of the courtyard is the Main Gate into the Harem, as well as a guard room featuring two gigantic gilded mirrors. On the left, the Concubines’ Corridor , with frescoes of the palace at the far end, leads to the Courtyard of the Concubines and Sultan’s Consorts . This is surrounded by baths, a laundry fountain, a laundry, dormitories and private apartments. Turn right at the end of the Concubines’ Corridor for Sultan Ahmet’s Kiosk , which is decorated with a tiled chimney, followed by the Apartments of the Valide Sultan , the centre of power in the Harem. From these ornate rooms the valide sultan oversaw and controlled her huge ‘family’. Of particular note is the Salon of the Valide Sultan with its lovely 19th-century murals featuring bucolic views of İ stanbul. Past the Courtyard of the Valide Sultan is a splendid reception room with a large fireplace that leads to a vestibule covered in Kütahya and İ znik tiles dat ing from the 17th century. This is where the princes, valide sultan and senior concubines waited before entering the handsome Imperial Hall for an audience with the sultan. Built during the reign of Murat III, the hall was redecorated in baroque style by order of Osman III (r 1754–57). Nearby is the Privy Chamber of Murat III , one of the most sumptuous rooms in the palace. Dating from 1578, virtually all of its decoration is original and is thought to be the work of Sinan. The restored three-tiered marble fountain was designed to give the sound of cascading water and to make it difficult to eavesdrop on the sultan’s conversations. The gilded canopied seating areas are later 18th-century additions. Continue to the Privy Chamber of Ahmet III and peek into the adjoining din ing room built in 1705. The latter is lined with wooden panels decorated with images of flowers and fruits painted in lacquer. Back through the Privy Chamber of Murat III are two of the most beauti ful rooms in the Harem – the Twin Kiosk/Apartments of the Crown Prince . These two rooms date from around 1600; note the painted canvas dome in the first room and the fine İ znik tile panels above the fireplace in the second. The stained glass is also noteworthy. Past these rooms is the Courtyard of the Favourites . Over the edge of the courtyard (really a terrace) you’ll see a large empty pool. Overlooking the court yard are the tiny windows of the many small dark rooms comprising the kafes (cage) where brothers or sons of the sultan were imprisoned. Adjoining it is the tiled Harem Mosque with its baroque mihrab (niche in a minaret indicating the direction of Mecca). From here, you can follow the passage known as the Golden Road and exit into the palace’s Third Court, or follow the corridor north and exit into the Fourth Court by the Circumcision Room. Third Court The Third Court is entered through the Gate of Felicity . The sultan’s private domain, it was staffed and guarded by white eunuchs. Inside is the Audience Chamber , constructed in the 16th century but refurbished in the 18th century.

SULTANAHMET & AROUND TOPKAPI PALACE

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