Istanbul Guide

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architectural theme park rather than a le gitimate exercise in conservation architec ture. Turing eventually got the go-ahead (after the intervention of the Turkish presi dent, no less) and in time opened all of the re-created buildings as Ayasofya Konaklar ı , one of the city’s first boutique heritage ho tels. Conservation theory aside, the street is particularly attractive and worth a look. GÜLHANE PARK PARK Map p238 (Gülhane Park ı ; h 7am-10pm; j Gül hane) Gülhane Park was once the outer gar den of Topkap ı Palace, accessible only to the royal court. These days crowds of locals come here to picnic under the many trees, promenade past the formally planted flow erbeds, and enjoy wonderful views of the Bosphorus, Sea of Marmara and Princes’ Is lands from the Set Üstü Çay Bahçesi on the park’s northeastern edge. The park is espe cially lovely during the İ stanbul Tulip Festi val F , in April, when tulips are arranged to resemble nazar boncuk ‘evil eye’ charms. Green-fingered beautification has brought improvements to walkways and amenities, and the park has seen the open ing of the İ stanbul Museum of the History of Science & Technology in Islam (p82). Next to the southern entrance is the Alay Kö ş kü (Parade Kiosk), now open to the pub 2 Neighbourhood Walk Sultanahmet Saunter START AYA SOFYA MEYDANI END ARASTA BAZAAR LENGTH 2.3KM; TWO HOURS Set off from Aya Sofya Meydan ı and turn left into Bab ı hümayun Caddesi to visit the 1 Aya Sofya Tombs (p78). Then head towards the 2 Fountain of Sultan Ahmet III outside Topkap ı Palace. This kiosk once dispensed cold drinks of water or ş erbet (sherbet) to thirsty Ottoman travellers. Veer left into cobbled So ğ ukçe ş me Sokak and then turn left into Caferiye Sokak to visit the 3 Cafera ğ a Medresesi (p88), where you can enjoy a glass of tea after admiring the elegant Sinan-designed building. Back on Caferiye Sokak, continue until you reach the busy thoroughfare of Alemdar Caddesi and then walk along Sultanhamet Park to the 4 Hippodrome (p77), where in Byzan tine times horse-drawn chariots stormed around the perimeter. Walk down Ş ehit Mehmet Pa ş a Yoku ş u and continue down Katip Sinan Camii Sokak. You will arrive at the 5 Sokullu Ş ehit Me

lic as the Ahmet Hamdi Tanp ı nar Literature Museum Library (p81). Across the street and 100m downhill from the park’s main gate is an outrageous ly curvaceous rococo gate leading into the precincts of what was the grand vizierate, or Ottoman prime ministry, known in the West as the Sublime Porte (Map p238; Alem dar Caddesi; j Gülhane) thanks to this en trance. Today the buildings beyond the gate hold various offices of the İ stanbul provin cial government (the Vilayeti). LITTLE AYA SOFYA MOSQUE Map p240 (Küçük Aya Sofya Camii, SS Sergius & Bacchus Church; Küçük Ayasofya Caddesi; h sun rise-sunset; j Sultanahmet or Çemberlita ş ) F Justinian and his wife Theodora built this little church sometime between 527 and 536, just before Justinian built Aya Sofya. You can still see their monogram worked into some of the frilly white capitals. The building is one of the most beautiful Byzantine struc tures in the city despite being converted into a mosque in the early 16th century and hav ing many of its original features obscured during an extensive restoration in 2007. Named after Sergius and Bacchus, the two patron saints of Christians in the Ro man army, the building has been known as Little (Küçük in Turkish) Aya Sofya for hmet Pa ş a Mosque (p81) on the left hand side of the street. After admiring its İ znik tiles, veer left down Ş ehit Mehmet Pa ş a Sokak to the residential neighbourhood of Küçük Ayasofya. You will come to a busy but narrow road called Kad ı rga Liman ı Caddesi. Veer left here and follow the road until you arrive at the sadly delapidated 6 Çardakl ı Hamam , built in 1503. Turn right and you will see 7 Little Aya Sofya (p81), one of the most beautiful Byzantine buildings in the city. Continue east along Küçük Ayasofya Caddesi and walk left up the hill at Aksakal Caddesi. At the crest is the 8 Sphendone (p77), originally part of the Hippodrome’s southern stadium. Opposite is a huge carpet shop called 9 Nakka ş (p82). Pop in here and ask a staff member to show you the restored Byzantine cistern in its basement. From here, continue along Nakilbent Sokak and veer right down Ş ifa Hamam ı Sokak, turning left into Küçük Ayasofya Caddesi. Continue straight to the a Arasta Bazaar (p88), Sultanahmet’s pre-eminent shopping precinct.