Istanbul Guide

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Arasta Bazaar (Map p240; Arasta Bazaar 93; h 9am-7pm; j Sultanahmet) . YILMAZ IPEKÇILIK TEXTILES Map p240 ( % 0212-638 4579; www.yilmazipekcilik. com/en; Torun Sokak 3; h 9am-9pm Mon-Sat, to 7pm winter; j Sultanahmet) The Büyüka ş ı k family specialises in well-priced hand loomed silk textiles made in Antakya. They have been at it for several generations, pro ducing good-quality scarves, shawls and pe ş temals (bath wraps). NAKKA Ş CARPETS Map p240 ( % 0212-516 5222; www.nakkasrug. com; Nakilbent Sokak 13; h 9am-7pm; j Sultan ahmet) Nakka ş sells carpets, textiles, ce ramics and jewellery. Its varied collection of more than 20,000 carpets and kilims in cludes antique rugs, hand-woven pieces and traditional Anatolian carpets. A few have even won design awards. 2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES o İ STANBUL WALKS WALKING, CULINARY Map p240 ( % 0212-516 6300, 0554 335 6622; www.istanbulwalks.com; 1st fl, Ş ifa Hamam ı Sokak 1; tours adult €35-75, child under 2/7yr free/30% discount; j Sultanahmet) Specialising in cul tural tourism, this company is run by his tory buffs and offers a large range of guided walking tours conducted by knowledgeable English-speaking guides. Tours concentrate on İ stanbul’s various neighbourhoods, but there are also tours of major monuments, a Turkish coffee trail, and a Bosphorus and Golden Horn cruise by private boat. o İ STANBUL EATS WALKING (http://istanbuleats.com; tours per person US$75 125) Full-day culinary walks around the Old City, Bazaar District, Beyo ğ lu, Kad ı köy and the Bosphorus suburbs, as well as evenings spent sampling kebaps in Aksaray’s ‘Little Syria (p103)’ district or visiting meyhanes (Turkish taverns) in Beyo ğ lu. All are con ducted by the dedicated foodies who pro duce the excellent blog of the same name, and involve lots of eating. COOKING ALATURKA COOKING Map p240 ( % 0212-458 5919; www.cookingala turka.com; Akb ı y ı k Caddesi 72a, Cankurtaran; classes per person incl meal €65; h 10.30am &

4.30pm by reservation Mon-Sat; j Sultanahmet) Established in 2002, this culinary school has changed hands but is still cooking up a storm under its Turkish-Italian ownership. Suitable for both novices and experienced cooks, its convivial 2½-hour classes give a great introduction to Turkish cuisine, from classic meze to Ottoman dishes such as Circassian chicken. The delicious results are enjoyed over a meal in the school’s restaurant (p84). URBAN ADVENTURES WALKING TOUR, CULTURAL TOUR ( % 0532 641 2822; www.urbanadventures.com; tours adult €27-82, child €22-79) The inter national tour company Intrepid offers a program of city tours including a popular four-hour guided walk around Sultanah met and the Bazaar District. Also on offer are the ‘Picnic on Two Continents’ and the ‘Home Cooked İ stanbul’ tours, the latter including a no-frills dinner with a local family in their home and a visit to a neigh HAMAM Map p240 ( % 0212-517 3535; www.ayasofya hamami.com; Aya Sofya Meydan ı 2; bath treat ments €85-170, massages €40-75; h 8am-10pm; j Sultanahmet) This meticulously restored twin hamam dating to 1556 offers the most luxurious traditional bath experience in the Old City. Designed by Mimar Sinan, it was built just across the road from Aya Sofya by order of Süleyman the Magnificent and named in honour of his wife Hürrem Sul tan, commonly known as Roxelana. The building’s three-year, US$13 million restoration, completed in 2011, was closely monitored by heritage authorities and the end result is wonderful: it retains Sinan’s austere design but endows it with an un derstated modern luxury. There are sepa rate baths for males and females, both with a handsome so ğ ukluk (entrance vestibule) surrounded by wooden change cubicles. Treatments are expert and the surrounds are exceptionally clean. The basic 35 minute bath treatment costs €85 and includes a scrub and soap massage, olive oil soap and a personal kese (coarse cloth mitten used for exfoliation). Book ahead in high season. In warm weather, a cafe and restaurant operate on the outdoor terrace. bourhood teahouse. AYASOFYA HÜRREM SULTAN HAMAMI

SULTANAHMET & AROUND SPORTS & ACTIVITIES