Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide

Collectors of antique textiles will be in seventh heaven when inspecting the decorative tribal textiles that have made their way here from Central Asia. These are often sold in carpet shops. TURKISH DELIGHT Lokum (Turkish Delight) makes a great present for those left at home, but is even better to scoff on the spot. It’s sold in speciality shops around the city and comes in flavours such as cevizli (walnut), fıstıklı (pistachio), bademli (almond) and roze (rose water). Ask for a çeşitli (assortment) if you want to sample the various types. The largest concentration of quality outlets is around (but not in) the Spice Bazaar at Eminönü. The Dying Art of Bargaining The elaborate etiquette of the Ottoman Empire lingers in many day-to-day rituals still observed in its greatest creation, İstanbul. Until recently the art of bargaining was one of these. Times have changed, though, and these days the non-negotiable price tag reigns supreme in most of the city’s retail outlets. Here, as in many former stops along the legendary Silk Road, the days of camel caravans have long gone, supplanted by multinational retailers, sleek supply-chain management and an increasingly homogeneous shopping experience. Perhaps the only exception to this rule can be found in the city’s carpet shops, particularly those located in the Grand Bazaar. Many of these still take pride in practising the ancient art of bargaining. If you are visiting İstanbul and are keen to buy a carpet or rug in the bazaar, keep the following tips in mind: A The ‘official’ prices have almost always been artificially inflated to allow for a bargaining margin, with 20% to 30% the rule of thumb. A Shopping here involves many aspects of Ottoman etiquette. You will drink tea, exchange polite greetings and size up the trustworthiness of the