Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide

To access the galleries, walk up the switchback ramp at the northern end of the inner narthex. In the south gallery (straight ahead and then left through the 6th century marble door) are the remnants of a magnificent Deesis (Last Judgement). This 13th-century mosaic depicts Christ with the Virgin Mary on his right and John the Baptist on his left. Close by is the Tomb of Enrico Dandolo , a blind Venetian doge who led the Sack of Constantinople during the Fourth Crusade (1202–04) and died soon afterwards. The marker was laid in the 19th century by an Italian restoration team, the original having been destroyed by the Ottomans. Further on, at the eastern (apse) end of the gallery, is an 11th-century mosaic depicting Christ Enthroned with Empress Zoe and Constantine IX Monomachos . When this portrait was started, Zoe (r 1028–50) was 50 years old and newly married (for the first time) to the aged Romanus III Argyrus. Upon Romanus’ death in 1034, she had his face excised from the mosaic and replaced it with that of her virile new husband and consort, Michael IV. Michael died eight years later and Zoe, aged 64, wed the eminent senator Constantine IX Monomachos (r 1042– 55), whose portrait was added here and remains only because he outlived the empress. To the right of Zoe and Constantine is a 12th-century mosaic depicting the Virgin Mary, Emperor John Comnenus II and Empress Eirene . The emperor, who was known as ‘John the Good’, is on the Virgin’s left and the empress, who was known for her charitable works, is to her right; both are giving money to Aya Sofya. Their son Alexius is depicted next to Eirene; he died soon after this portrait was made. Eirene’s stone sarcophagus is downstairs in the outer narthex.