Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide

sultan’s concubines and children, then to the sultan’s mother and finally – if they were particularly attractive and talented – to the sultan himself. The sultan was allowed by Islamic law to have four legitimate wives, who received the title of kadın (wife). If a wife bore him a son she was called haseki sultan; if she bore him a daughter, haseki kadın . Ruling the Harem was the valide sultan (mother of the reigning sultan), who often owned large landed estates in her own name and controlled them through black eunuch servants. Able to give orders directly to the grand vizier, her influence on the sultan, on his wives and concubines, and on matters of state was often profound. The earliest of the 300-odd rooms in the Harem were constructed during the reign of Murat III (r 1574–95); the harems of previous sultans were at the now demolished Eski Sarayı (Old Palace), near present-day Beyazıt Meydanı. The Harem complex has six floors, but only one of these can be visited. This is approached via the Carriage Gate . Inside the gate is the Dome with Cupboards , the Harem treasury where financial records were kept. Beyond it is a room where the Harem’s eunuch guards were stationed. This is decorated with fine Kütahya tiles from the 17th century. Adjoining this is the Mosque of the Black Eunuchs , which features depictions of Mecca on its 17th-century tiles. Beyond is the narrow Courtyard of the Black Eunuchs , also decorated with Kütahya tiles. Behind the marble colonnade on the left are the Black Eunuchs’ Dormitories . In the early days white eunuchs were used, but black eunuchs sent as presents by the Ottoman governor of Egypt later took control. As many as 200 lived here, guarding the doors and waiting on the women of the Harem. At the far end of the courtyard is the Main Gate into the Harem, as well as a guard room featuring two gigantic gilded mirrors. On the left, the Concubines’ Corridor , with frescoes of the palace at the far end, leads to the Courtyard of the Concubines and Sultan’s Consorts . This is surrounded by baths, a laundry fountain, a laundry, dormitories and private apartments. Turn right at the end of the Concubines’ Corridor for Sultan Ahmet’s Kiosk , which is decorated with a tiled chimney, followed by the Apartments of the Valide Sultan , the centre of power in the Harem. From these ornate rooms the valide sultan oversaw and controlled her huge ‘family’. Of particular note is the Salon