Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide

5 EATING Sultanahmet’s lovely settings and great views are too often accompanied by disappointing meals. That said, we’ve eaten our way through the neighbourhood and, fortunately, there are a few gems to be found. If you’re in the Sirkeci neighbourhood at lunchtime, join the locals in Hocapaşa Sokak, a pedestrianised street lined with cheap eateries. Here, lokantas offer hazır yemek (ready-made dishes), köftecis dish out flavoursome meatballs, kebapçıs grill meat to order and pidecis serve piping-hot pides (Turkish-style pizza). For more about eating in Sirkeci, check http://sirkecirestaurants.com. The Küçük Ayasofya neighbourhood is another good option for more authentic and affordable eateries. SEFA RESTAURANT ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-520 0670; www.sefarestaurant.com.tr; Nuruosmaniye Caddesi 11, Cağaloğlu; portions ₺ 8-14, kebaps ₺ 20; h 7am-5pm; v ; j Sultanahmet) Describing its cuisine as Ottoman, this popular place offers hazır yemek (ready made dishes) and kebaps at reasonable prices. You can order from an English menu, but at busy times you may find it easier to just pick daily specials from the bain-marie. Try to arrive early-ish for lunch because many dishes run out by 1.30pm. No alcohol. EROL LOKANTASI ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-511 0322; Çatal Çeşme Sokak 3, Cağaloğlu; portions ₺ 5.50-15.50; h 11am-9pm Mon-Sat; v ; j Sultanahmet) One of Sultanahmet’s last lokantas (eateries serving ready-made food), Erol wouldn’t win any awards for its interior design but might for its warm welcome and food. The dishes in the bain-marie are made fresh daily using seasonal ingredients by the Erol family members, who have collectively put in several decades in the kitchen. English-speaking son and nephew Şenol will guide you through the meat and vegetable stews on offer.

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