Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide

6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE Most Sultanahmet restaurants are licensed, while streets such as Şeftali Sokak (near the Basilica Cistern), the adjoining İncili Çavuş Sokak and, down in Cankurtaran, Akbıyık Caddesi are good hunting grounds for bars. Few are on a par with those in Beyoğlu, but do not despair. Why not substitute tobacco or caffeine for alcohol and visit one of the atmospheric çay bahçesis dotted around the neighbourhood? DERVIŞ AILE ÇAY BAHÇESI ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; cnr Dalbastı Sokak & Kabasakal Caddesi; h 7am-midnight Apr-Oct; j Sultanahmet) Superbly located directly opposite the Blue Mosque, the Derviş beckons patrons with its comfortable cane chairs and shady trees. Efficient service, reasonable prices and peerless people-watching opportunities make it a great place for a leisurely çay ( ₺ 3), nargile ( ₺ 22), tost (toasted sandwich; ₺ 7) and a game of backgammon. CAFE MEŞALE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Arasta Bazaar, cnr Dalbastı & Torun Sokaks, Cankurtaran; h 24hr; j Sultanahmet) Located in a sunken courtyard behind the Blue Mosque, Meşale is a tourist trap par excellence, but still has loads of charm. Generations of backpackers have joined locals in claiming one of its cushioned benches and enjoying a tea and nargile. It has sporadic live Turkish music and a bustling vibe in the evening. A’YA ROOFTOP LOUNGE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-402 3000; www.fourseasons.com/istanbul; Four Seasons Istanbul at Sultanahmet, Tevkifhane Sokak 1, Cankurtaran; h 4pm-late; j Sultanahmet) Open in summer, this rooftop bar has a full-on view of Aya Sofya, Ayasofya Hürrem Sultan Hamamı and the Bosphorus, while the Blue Mosque is only NARGILE CAFE BAR TEA GARDEN