Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide

A Tour of the Bazaar There are thousands of shops in the bazaar, and this can be overwhelming for the first-time visitor. By following this suggested itinerary, you should be able to develop an understanding of the bazaar’s history, its layout and its important position as the hub of the surrounding retail precinct. Start at the tram stop next to the tall column known as Çemberlitaş. From here, walk down Vezir Han Caddesi and you will soon come to the entrance to the Vezir Han, a han (caravanserai) built between 1659 and 1660 by the Köprülüs, a distinguished Ottoman family. Five of its members served as grand vizier ( vezir ) to the sultan, hence its name. In Ottoman times, this han would have offered travelling merchants accommodation and a place to do business. Though gold manufacturers still work here, the han is in a sadly dilapidated state. Look for the tuğra (monogram or crest) of the sultan over the main gateway. Continue walking down Vezir Han Caddesi until you come to a cobbled pedestrianised street on your left. Walk along this until you reach the baroque style Nuruosmaniye Mosque. Next to it is one of the major entrances to the Grand Bazaar, the Nuruosmaniye Kapısı (Nuruosmaniye Gate; Gate 1), which is adorned by an imperial tuğra . Head into brightly lit Kalpakçılar Caddesi, the busiest street in the bazaar. Originally named after the makers of fur hats ( kalpakçılars ) who had their stores here, it’s now full of jewellers. Walk a short distance and then turn right into Sandal Bedestenı Sokak before veering left into Ağa Sokak, which takes you into the oldest part of the bazaar, the İç (Inner) Bedesten , where most of the bazaar’s antique stores are located. Exiting the İç Bedesten from its north door, head to the first cross street, Halıcılar Sokak , where popular bath ware and textile shops are located. Walking east (right) you will come to Kuyumcular Caddesi (Street of the Jewellers). Turn left and walk past the little kiosk in the middle of the street. Built in the 19th century and known as the Oriental Kiosk, this was once home to the most famous muhallebici (milk-pudding shop) in the district. A little further down, on the right-hand side of the street, is the pretty Zincirli (Chain) Han .