Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide

PIDE€ MAVI HALIÇ PIDECISI ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-513 6304; Kutucular Caddesi 28, Eminönü; pides ₺ 10-15; h 11am-6pm; j Eminönü) Fight your way through the crowds of shoppers that jam Hasırcılar Caddesi and you’ll eventually come to this tiny pideci on the corner of Limoncu Sokak, which is known for its kıymalı (ground beef and tomato) pide. BAHAR RESTAURANT ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Yağcı Han 13, off Nuruosmaniye Sokak, Nuruosmaniye; soup ₺ 6, portions ₺ 10-16; h noon-4pm Mon-Sat; j Çemberlitaş) Tiny Bahar (‘Spring’) is popular with local shopkeepers and is always full, so arrive early to score a table. Dishes change daily and with the season – try the flavourful soups and tasty meat dishes. No alcohol. HAMDI RESTAURANT ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-444 6463; www.hamdirestorant.com.tr; Kalçın Sokak 11, Eminönü; mezes ₺ 11.50-26, kebaps ₺ 28-50; h noon-midnight; pac ; j Eminönü) One of the city’s best-loved restaurants, this place near the Spice Bazaar is owned by Hamdi Arpacı, who started out as a street-food vendor in the 1960s. His tasty Urfa-style kebaps were so popular that he soon graduated from his modest stand to this building, which has views of the Old City, Golden Horn and Galata from its top-floor terrace. The food is excellent. Try the yoğurtlu şakşuka (yoghurt meze with fried eggplant, peppers and potato), the içli köfte (meatballs rolled in bulgur) and the TURKISH€ KEBAP€€ ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-514 5878; www.kurufasulyeci.com; Professor Sıddık Sami Onar Caddesi 11, Süleymaniye; beans with pilaf & pickles ₺ 17; h 8am-9pm; v ; m Vezneciler) Join the crowds of hungry locals at this long-time fasülyeci (restaurant specialising in beans) opposite the Süleymaniye Mosque. It’s been dishing up its signature kuru fasülye (white beans cooked in a spicy tomato sauce) accompanied by pilaf (rice) and turşu (pickles) since 1924. The next-door fasülyeci is nearly as old and serves up more of the same. No alcohol.