Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide

FISH SANDWICHES The city’s favourite fast food is undoubtedly the balık ekmek (fish sandwich), and the most atmospheric place to try one of these is at the Eminönü end of the Galata Bridge. Here, in front of fishing boats tied to the quay, are a number of stands where mackerel fillets are grilled, crammed into fresh bread and served with salad. A generous squeeze of bottled lemon juice is optional but recommended. A sandwich will set you back a mere ₺ 8, and is delicious accompanied by a glass of the şalgam (sour turnip juice, ₺ 2) sold by nearby pickle vendors. There are plenty of other places around town to try a balık ekmek – head to any iskele (ferry dock) and there’s bound to be a stand nearby. For an upmarket version ( ₺ 30), head to stylish eatery Karaköy Gümrük near the derköy docks. FES CAFE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-528 1613; www.fescafe.com; Halicilar Caddesi 62, Grand Bazaar; sandwiches ₺ 15-18, salads ₺ 20-25; h 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat; j Beyazıt-Kapalı Çarşı) After a morning spent trading repartee with the Grand Bazaar’s many touts, you’ll be in need of respite. Those who want a cafe with a Western-style ambience and menu are sure to be happy with this stylish cafe at the centre of the bazaar action. Sandwiches and salads feature on the menu, along with good espresso and Turkish coffee. There’s another branch (Ali Baba Türbe Sokak 25) in nearby Nuruosmaniye, but this was closed for renovation at the time of research. HAVUZLU RESTAURANT ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-527 3346; www.havuzlurestaurant.com; Gani Çelebi Sokak 3, Grand Bazaar; portions ₺ 17-30; h 9am-7pm Mon-Sat; ac ; j Beyazıt-Kapalı Çarşı) After a morning spent in the Grand Bazaar, many visitors choose to park their shopping bags at this well-known lokanta . A lovely space with a vaulted ceiling, Havuzlu (named after the small fountain at its entrance) serves up simple but tasty fare to hungry hordes of tourists and shopkeepers – go early when the food is freshest. No alcohol.

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