Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide

6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE Like most parts of the Old City, the area around the Grand Bazaar is conservative and there are few places serving alcohol. There are loads of çay bahçesis (tea gardens), nargile cafes and kahvehanesis (coffeehouses) to visit, though. o MIMAR SINAN TERAS CAFE ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-514 4414; Mimar Sinan Han, Fetva Yokuşu 34-35, Süleymaniye; h 8am 1am; W ; m Vezneciler) A magnificent panorama of the city can be enjoyed from the spacious outdoor terrace of this popular student cafe in a ramshackle building located in the shadow of Süleymaniye Mosque. Head here during the day or in the evening to admire the view over a coffee, unwind with a nargile or enjoy a glass of çay and game of backgammon. To keep you sated, food and drink choices include gozleme (stuffed flatbreads, ₺ 16 to ₺ 18), sahlep (hot milky drink, ₺ 12) and Turkish coffee ( ₺ 11). Be sure to sit on the terrace at the very top of the building, which has the best view. o ERENLER NARGILE VE ÇAY BAHÇESI ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Yeniçeriler Caddesi 35, Beyazıt; h 7am-midnight; j Beyazıt-Kapalı Çarşı) Set in the vine-covered courtyard of the Çorlulu Ali Paşa Medrese, this nargile cafe near the Grand Bazaar is the most atmospheric in the Old City. VEFA BOZACISI ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-519 4922; www.vefa.com.tr; 66 Vefa Caddesi, Molla Hüsrev; boza ₺ 3; h 8am-midnight; m Vezneciler) This famous boza bar was established in 1876 and locals still flock here to drink the viscous tonic, which is made from water, sugar and fermented barley and has a slight lemony tang. Topped with dried chickpeas and a sprinkle of cinnamon, it has a reputation for building up strength and virility, and tends to NARGILE CAFE TEA GARDEN BOZA BAR