Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide

THE CHORA’S PATRON

Theodore Metochites was born in Constantinople in 1270, the son of a senior official in the court of Michael VIII Palaiologos. In 1290 he was accepted into the court of Andronikos II and was appointed logothetes, official responsible for the treasury, making him the highest Byzantine official after the emperor. In 1316 Metochites was appointed by the emperor as ktetor (donor) for the restoration of the Chora Monastery. When the restoration of the monastery was completed in 1321, he was granted the title of grand logothetes. Metochites lost his position in 1328 when Emperor Andronikos II was dethroned, and he was banished from Constantinople. He was allowed to return in 1330 and chose to become a priest in the monastery that he had so generously endowed. He died in 1332 and is buried in a grave niche.

The building originally had a belltower, constructed in the southwest corner and later replaced by the present minaret. Most of İstanbul’s Byzantine belfries disappeared with Ottoman restrictions on the use of bells and the conversion of churches into mosques.

Mosaics Most of the interior is covered with mosaics depicting the lives of Christ and the Virgin Mary. Look out for the Khalke Jesus (item 33), under the right dome in the inner narthex, which shows Christ and Mary with two donors – Prince Isaac Comnenos and Melane, daughter of Byzantine emperor Michael VIII Palaiologos. Sadly, only scant remains exist. On the dome itself is a stunning depiction of Jesus and his ancestors ( The Genealogy of Christ ; item 27). On the narthex’ left dome is a serenely beautiful mosaic of Mary and the Baby Jesus surrounded by her ancestors (item 34). In the naos (nave) are three mosaics: of Christ (item 50c), of Mary and the Baby Jesus (item 50b) and of the Assumption of the Virgin (item 50a). Turn around to see the latter, as it’s above the main door you just entered. The ‘infant’ being held by Jesus is actually Mary’s soul. Frescoes