Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide

CHURCH CHURCH OF ST MARY OF THE MONGOLS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Church of Theotokos Panaghiotissa, Kanlı Kilise; Tevkii Cafer Mektebi Sokak, Fener; h 9am-5pm Sat & Sun; g 99, 99A, 99Y from Eminönü, 55T from Taksim) Consecrated in the 13th century and saved from conversion into a mosque by the personal decree of Mehmet the Conqueror, this is the only church in İstanbul to remain in Greek hands ever since Byzantine times. It was named after Princess Maria Paleologina, an illegitimate daughter of Emperor Michael VIII Paleologos. Maria was sent from Byzantium to marry Hulagu, the Great Khan of the Mongols, in 1265. By the time she arrived in his kingdom, he had died, so she was forced to marry his son Abagu instead. On Abagu’s death, she returned to Byzantium and retired to a convent attached to this church. The church is usually open on weekends. If the doors aren’t open, ring the bell on the outside gate to attract the attention of the caretaker. CHURCH OF ST STEPHEN OF THE BULGARS ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Sveti Stefan Church; Mürsel Paşa Caddesi 85, Fener; g 99, 99A, 99Y from Eminönü, 55T from Taksim) These days we’re accustomed to kit homes and we self-assemble furniture from Ikea but, back in 1871, when this Gothic Revival–style church was constructed from cast-iron pieces shipped down the Danube and across the Black Sea from Vienna on 100 barges, the idea was extremely novel. The building’s interior features screens, a balcony and columns all cast from iron. It is extremely beautiful, with the gilded iron glinting in the hazy light that filters in through stained-glass windows. The congregation comprises members of the Bulgarian Orthodox Exarchate (Bulgarian Orthodox Church), which broke away from the Greek Ecumenical CHURCH destitute Jews, a pottery and finally a car park. When we visited, restoration of the palace’s remaining sections had finished, but it was closed to the public with no opening date forthcoming.