Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide

6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE Vodina Caddesi offers the best selection of cafes. Much of the Golden Horn (Haliç) hinterland is conservative Islamic territory and the whole area is quiet after dark. PIERRE LOTI CAFÉ ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Gümüşsuyu Balmumcu Sokak 1, Eyüp; h 8am-midnight; f Eyüp) Many visitors head to this hilltop cafe after visiting the Eyüp Sultan Mosque. Named for the famous French novelist who is said to have come here for inspiration, it offers lovely views across the Golden Horn and is a popular weekend destination for locals, who relax over tea, coffee, ice cream and nargiles (water pipes). A cable car (one way ₺ 4.00; cheaper on an Istanbulkart) to the cafe leaves from near the mosque. COFFEE DEPARTMENT ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0532 441 6663; http://coffeedepartment.co; Kürçü Çeşmesi Sokak 5a, Balat; h 10am-8pm; g 99, 99A, 99Y from Eminönü, 55T from Taksim) Decked out with big sacks of coffee and wood-and-metal seating, this caffeine besotted cafe roasts its own beans, and sells bags of coffee and filter-drip coffee-making kits. Kenyan, Ethiopian and Costa Rican beans are on offer, with the Latin American selection set to increase. The Costa Rican makes a smooth flat white ( ₺ 9) with apple-pie and milk-chocoloate tastes. CAFE COFFEE