Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide

BALIK PAZARI Opposite the grandiose entrance to the 1868 Galatasaray Lycée ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Galatasaray Lisesi, High School; m Taksim) , one of the city’s most prestigious educational institutions, is the much-loved Balık Pazarı (Fish Market; MAP ; Şahne Sokak, off İstiklal Caddesi, Galatasaray; m Taksim ). At its entrance are stands selling midye tava (skewered mussels fried in hot oil), kokoreç (seasoned lamb or mutton intestines wrapped around a skewer and grilled over charcoal) and other snacks. Further inside are shops selling fish, caviar, fruit, vegetables and other produce; most of these are in Duduodaları Sokak on the left (southern) side of the market. Many of the shops have been here for close on a century and have extremely loyal clienteles. Check out Sütte Şarküteri ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-293 9292; Duduodaları Sokak 13; h 8am-10pm; m Taksim) for its delicious charcuterie, kaymak (clotted cream) and takeaway sandwiches; Üç Yıldız Şekerleme ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-293 8170; www.ucyildizsekerleme.com; Duduodaları Sokak 7; h 7am-8.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm Sun; m Şişhane, j Tünel) for jams, lokum (Turkish Delight) and sweets; Petek Turşuları ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-249 1324; Duduodaları Sokak; h 8.30am-8pm Mon-Sat; j Kabataş, then funicular to Taksim) for pickles; and Reşat Balık Market ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-293 6091; www.resatbalikmarket.com; Sahne Sokak 8b; m Taksim) for caviar and the city’s best lakerda (strongly flavoured salted bonito). At 24a Şahne Sokak, look for the gigantic black doors to the courtyard of the Üç Horan Ermeni Kilisesi ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Armenian Church of Three Altars; Sahne Sokak 24a; j Kabataş, then funicular to Taksim) , an Armenian church dating from 1838. Visitors can enter providing the doors are open. On the opposite side of the street is the neoclassical Avrupa Pasajı ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; European Passage; m Taksim) , an attractive arcade full of shops that once sold antiques, but now seem to stock little except tourist tat.