Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide
ANATOLIAN €€ JASH ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-244 3042; www.jashistanbul.com; Cihangir Caddesi 9, Cihangir; mezes ₺ 8-28, mains ₺ 24-50; h noon-2am; a ; m Taksim) Armenian specialities such as topik (a cold meze made with chickpeas, pistachios, onion, flour, currants, cumin and salt) make an appearance on the menu of this bijou meyhane in trendy Cihangir. Come on the weekend, when there’s live music and unusual dishes including harisa (chicken with a hand forged wheat and butter sauce) are on offer. KAHVE 6 ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-293 0849; Anahtar Sokak 13, Cihangir; breakfast dishes ₺ 16-23, sandwiches ₺ 12-23, pastas ₺ 18-22; h 9am-10pm; Wv ; m Taksim) An expat haven in Cihangir, Kahve Altı (Coffee 6) has a pretty interior salon and a sunny rear courtyard. The menu is simple, but deserves kudos for emphasising local, natural and seasonal (often organic) produce. No alcohol. o CUMA ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-293 2062; www.cuma.cc; Çukurcuma Caddesi 53a, Çukurcuma; breakfast plate ₺ 42, lunch dishes ₺ 19-34, dinner mains ₺ 30-36; h 9am-11pm Mon-Sat, to 8pm Sun; Wvc ; m Taksim) Banu Tiryakioğulları’s laid-back foodie oasis in the heart of Çukurcuma has one of the most devoted customer bases in the city. Tables are on the leafy terrace or in the atmospheric upstairs dining space, and the healthy, seasonally CAFE€€ MODERN TURKISH €€€ ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-249 0048; Turnacıbaşı Caddesi 49, Çukurcuma; pizzas ₺ 18-40; h 10.30am-10.30pm; aWvc ; m Taksim) A hipster vibe, mellow jazz soundtrack and Italian-style pizzas are the drawcards at this neighbourhood favourite. We’re fans of the cheap ‘desperate house wine’ (an extremely quaffable red from Yunatçılar winery on the Aegean island of Bozcaada) and also of the pizza with thyme, mozzarella and pastırma (pressed beef preserved in spices). Check the Facebook feed for details of weekly live jazz sessions.
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