Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide

Also on show is an old-fashioned diorama of the Conquest, and a tapestry woven by Ottoman sailors (who must have had lots of time on their hands) shows the flags of important maritime nations from around the world. The upper floor has a Çanakkale (Gallipoli) diorama and a room devoted to Atatürk, who was a famous Ottoman general before he became founder and commander-in-chief of the republican army and first president of the Turkish Republic. Perhaps the best reason to visit this museum is to view the short concert by the Mehter. Turkish historians argue that the Mehter was the world’s first true military band. Its purpose was not to make pretty music for dancing, but to precede the conquering Ottoman paşas (governors or generals) into vanquished towns, impressing upon the defeated populace their new, subordinate status. Children in particular will love watching the band members march with their steady, measured pace, turning in unison to face first the left side of the line of march, then the right. The easiest way to get to the museum is to walk up Cumhuriyet Caddesi from Taksim Meydanı. This will take around 20 minutes. Alternatively, take any bus heading up Cumhuriyet Caddesi from Taksim Meydanı. This large and leafy retreat is alive with birds, picnicking families and young couples strolling hand in hand. The best time to visit is in April, when the spring flowers (including thousands of tulips) are in bloom. At the park’s highest point is Yıldız Şale, built as a hunting lodge for Sultan Abdül Hamit II in 1880. Around 500m past the turn-off to Yıldız Şale, you’ll come to the Malta Köşkü, now an unlicensed restaurant and function centre. Built in 1870, this was where Abdül Hamit imprisoned his brother Murat V, whom he had deposed in 1876. The terrace has Bosphorus views, as does the upstairs dining room with its ornate ceiling and chandelier. YILDIZ PARK ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Yıldız Parkı; Çırağan Caddesi, Yıldız; g Çırağan)

PARK