Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide

MODERN ANATOLIAN €€ KANTIN ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-219 3114; www.kantin.biz; Maçka Caddesi 35a, Milli Reasürans Pasajı 16 ve 60, Nişantaşı; mains ₺ 15-44; h 11am-5pm Mon, 11am-11.30pm Tue-Sat; m Osmanbey) An early and much-loved adopter of the Slow Food philosophy, ‘Canteen’ remains one of İstanbul’s best bistros (and high-end takeaways). Chef-owner Semsa Denizsel, a pioneer of the farm-to-table approach in Turkey, serves ‘new İstanbul cuisine’, reflecting the city’s melting-pot heritage of Turkish, Greek, Armenian and Jewish homecooking. Only local and seasonal produce is used and the menu changes regularly. HÜNKAR ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-225 4665; www.hunkarlokantasi.com; Mim Kemal Öke Caddesi 21, Nişantaşı; meze ₺ 10, mains ₺ 35; h noon-10.30pm; v ; m Osmanbey) If you decide to spend a half-day shopping in Nişantaşı, consider taking a break and eating at Hünkar, one of the city’s best lokantas (eateries serving ready-made food). In business since 1950, it serves all the classic mezes and grilled meat dishes. AŞŞK KAHVE ( % 0212-265 4734; www.asskkahve.com; Muallim Naci Caddesi 64b, Kuruçeşme; brunch ₺ 20-40; h 9am-midnight, closed Mon winter; v ; g Kuruçeşme) Aşk means ‘love’ in Turkish; the extra ş creates something similar to ‘loove’ in English. Semantics aside, Aşşk serves İstanbullus their beloved leisurely Turkish breakfast by the Bosphorus. Go early to snaffle a table by the water, ANATOLIAN €€ CAFE€€ ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Dolmabahçe Caddesi, Beşiktaş; tost ₺ 5, mains ₺ 10; h 8.30am-10pm; j Kabataş) If the onslaught of late Ottoman decadence at Dolmabahçe Palace makes you feel faint, head to its Clock Tower Cafe to recover over a drink or snack. The windows overlook the Bosphorus, and prices are reasonable for a museum cafe (çay ₺ 2.50; cappuccino ₺ 7).