Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide

6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE The stretch of Bosphorus shoreline between Ortaköy and Kuruçeşme is often referred to as the Golden Mile, a reference to its string of high-profile waterfront nightclubs. Clubs are best visited during summer, when they open nightly and their waterside terraces are truly magical party venues. A night here won’t suit everyone, though: drinks are pricey, club restaurants poor quality and pricey, entrance policies inconsistent, and door staff notoriously rude and tip-hungry. There’s usually a cover charge Friday and Saturday nights, but you can often avoid this with a restaurant booking. MALTA KÖŞKÜ ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0216-413 9253; www.beltur.istanbul/malta-kosku.asp; Yıldız Parkı; çay ₺ 2.50, mains ₺ 20-30; g Çırağan) Built in 1870, this unlicensed restaurant and function centre was where Sultan Abdül Hamit II imprisoned his brother Murat V, having deposed him in 1876. The terrace has Bosphorus views, as does the upstairs dining room with its ornate ceiling and chandelier. Food is available, but we recommend sticking to tea or coffee, as the service can be slow and unfriendly. ÇIRAĞAN PALACE KEMPINSKI HOTEL ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0212-326 4646; www.kempinski.com; Çırağan Caddesi 32, Beşiktaş; g Çırağan) Nursing a mega-pricey çay ( ₺ 18), coffee ( ₺ 20) or beer ( ₺ 20) at one of the Çırağan’s terrace tables and watching the scene around İstanbul’s best swimming pool, which is right on the Bosphorus, lets you sample the lifestyle of the city’s rich and famous. The hotel occupies part of the 19th century Çırağan Palace; look out for the photos of celebrity guests.

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