Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide

SEAFOOD€€ KADI NIMET BALIKÇILIK ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; % 0216-348 7389; www.kadinimet.com; Serasker Caddesi 10a; mezes ₺ 9-25; h 11am-11pm; ac ; f Kadıköy) Tucked in behind one of the market’s best fish stalls, with the same owners, this much-loved restaurant is a good place to enjoy the daily catch. Make your choice from the cold mezes on display, choose your fish (daily price by weight) and let the waiters do the rest. Cold beer or rakı (aniseed brandy) are the usual accompaniments. CIBALIKAPI ( % 0216-348 9363; www.cibalikapibalikcisi.com; Moda Caddesi 163a, Moda; mezes ₺ 8-20, fish mains from ₺ 24; h noon-midnight; a ; f Kadıköy) Generally acknowledged as one of the city’s best fish restaurants, Cibalikapı has two branches – one on the Golden Horn and the other here in Moda. Super-fresh mezes and seafood are enjoyed in the pleasant dining room or on the garden terrace. If you go with a large appetite the daily degustation ( ₺ 180 for two persons) is good value. The other branch is next to Kadir Has University in Fener on the Golden Horn. SEAFOOD €€€ Known throughout the culinary world, Musa Dağdeviren’s lokanta (eatery serving ready-made food) showcases dishes from regional Turkey and is a wonderful place to sample treats such as lahmacun (Arabic-style pizza), içli köfte (meatballs rolled in bulgar and fried) and perde pılavı (chicken and rice in pastry casing). No alcohol, but the home-made şerbet (sweet fruit drink) is a delicious accompaniment. Vegetarians are very well catered for here, but should avoid Çiya’s adjoining kebapçı (kebaps ₺ 18 to ₺ 40), which sells a huge variety of tasty meat dishes.