Lonely Planet İstanbul Guide

Almost directly under the Fatih Bridge on the European shore is the huge stone four-storey Tophane Müşiri Zeki Paşa Yalı ( MAP ; Rumeli Hisarı; g 22 & 25E from Kabataş, 22RE & 40 from Beşiktaş, 40, 40T & 42T from Taksim) , a mansion built in the early 20th century for a field marshall in the Ottoman army. Later, it was sold to Sabiha Sultan, daughter of Mehmet VI, the last of the Ottoman sultans, and her husband İmer Faruk Efendi, grandson of Sultan Abdül Aziz. When the sultanate was abolished in 1922, Mehmet walked from this palace onto a British warship, never to return to Turkey. Past the bridge on the Asian side is Kanlıca , the ferry’s next stop. This charming village is famous for the rich and delicious yoghurt produced here, which is sold on the ferry and in two cafes on the shady waterfront square. The small Gâzi İskender Paşa Mosque ( MAP ; Kanlıca; f Kanlıca) in the square dates from 1560 and was designed by Mimar Sinan. There are excellent views of a number of yalıs as the ferry arrives and departs here. High on a promontory above Kanlıca is Hıdiv Kasrı ( MAP ; Khedive’s Villa; www.beltur.com.tr; Çubuklu Yolu 32, Çubuklu; h 9am-10pm; f Kanlıca) F , a palatial art-nouveau villa built in 1906. You can see its square white tower (often flying a Turkish flag) from the ferry. The property is known as the Khedive’s Villa (Hıdiv Kasrı) in reference to the man who commissioned it, Khedive Abbas Hilmi II, hıdiv (khedive or viceroy) of Egypt. The khedives maintained close ties with the Ottoman Empire and many spent summers in İstanbul to escape the debilitating Egyptian heat. This villa functioned as one of their summer residences until the 1930s. Restored after decades of neglect, the villa now functions as a restaurant and cafe. The building is an architectural gem and the garden is superb, especially during the İstanbul International Tulip Festival in April. The villa is a 20-minute walk from the iskele (ferry dock) at Kanlıca. Head left (north) up Halide Edip Adivar Caddesi and turn right into the second street (Kafadar Sokak). Turn left into Hacı Muhittin Sokağı and walk up the hill until you come to a fork in the road. Take the left fork and follow the ‘Hadiv Kasrı’ signs to the villa’s car park and garden.