Istanbul Guide

104

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2 Neighbourhood Walk Ottoman Heartland START SÜLEYMANIYE MOSQUE END WOMEN’S BAZAAR LENGTH 2KM; TWO HOURS Start at the magnificent 1 Süleymaniye Mosque (p96), cross Professor S ı dd ı k Sami Onar Caddesi and enter narrow Ay ş ekad ı n Hamam ı Sokak (opposite the mosque’s main gate). Follow it and Kayserili Ahmetpa ş a Sokak through the Molla Hüsrev district, which is slowly being restored as part of the Süleymaniye Urban Regeneration Project. Kayserili Ahmetpa ş a Sokak is home to a number of pretty timber houses built in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, including the 2 Kayserili Ahmet Pa ş a Kona ğ ı , a three-storey mansion once home to an Ot toman navy minister and now headquarters of the city’s Directorate of Inspection of Conservation Implementation. Follow the street and veer right until you come to the 3 Ekmekçizade Ahmetpa ş a Medresesi , built between 1603 and 1617 by the son of a baker from Edirne who rose up the ranks of Ottoman society to become a defterder (first

lord of the treasury). Turn right and follow Cemal Yener Tosyal ı Caddesi until you come to a junction with Vefa Caddesi. The famous 4 Vefa Bozac ı s ı (p106) is close by – con sider stopping for a glass of boza . Back on Cemal Yener Tosyal ı Caddesi, turn left into Ş ehzade Camii Sokak and go under the stone arch to reach the rear gate of 5 Ş ehzade Mehmet Mosque (p100). If the gate is closed, you will need to backtrack along Cemal Yener Tosyal ı Caddesi and turn right into Dede Efedi Caddesi to access the main entrance on Ş ehzadeba ş ı Caddesi. After the mosque, head west and you’ll see remnants of the majestic Byzantine 6 Aqueduct of Valens (p100). Cross Atatürk Bulvar ı and head to the aqueduct through 7 Fatih An ı t (Monument) Park . The huge monument shows Mehmet the Conqueror (Fatih) astride his horse. Passing a handsome Ottoman Re vivalist building housing the 8 Fatih İ tfaiye (Fire Station) on your left, head under the aqueduct and into the 9 Women’s Bazaar (p100) on İ tfaiye Caddesi, a vibrant local shopping precinct where there are a number of excellent eateries.