Istanbul Guide

105

o BEREKET DÖNER KEBAP € Map p242 (Hac ı Kad ı n Caddesi, cnr Tavanl ı Çe ş me Sokak, Küçük Pazar; döner sandwich from ₺ 3.50; h 11am-8pm Mon-Sat; m Haliç) The best döner ekmek (sandwich) in the district – maybe even the city – can be found at this local eatery in the run-down Küçük Pazar shop ping strip between Eminönü and Atatürk Bulvar ı . Definitely worth the trek. SIIRT Ş EREF BÜRYAN KEBAP ANATOLIAN € ( % 0212-635 8085; http://serefburyan.org; It faye Caddesi 4, Kad ı nlar Pazar ı , Fatih; büryan ₺ 15, perde pilavi ₺ 15, kebaps ₺ 13-32; h 9.30am-10pm Sep-May, till midnight Jun-Aug; pac ; m Vezne ciler) Those who enjoy investigating region al cuisines should head to this four-storey eatery in the Women’s Bazaar (p100) near the Aqueduct of Valens. It specialises in two dishes that are a speciality of the southeast ern city of Siirt: büryan (lamb slow-cooked in a pit) and perde pilavi (chicken and rice cooked in pastry). Both are totally delicious. The büryan here is cooked in pits at the rear of the restaurant and is meltingly tender. It’s served on flat bread with crispy bits of lamb fat and a dusting of salt. Perde pilavi is made with rice, chicken, almonds and currants that are encased in a thin pas try shell and then baked until the exterior turns golden and flaky. Order either with a glass of frothy homemade ayran (salty yogurt drink) and you’ll be happy indeed. Note that on weekends the food tends to run out by 9pm. No alcohol. KURU FASÜLYECI ERZINCANLI ALI BABA TURKISH € Map p242 ( % 0212-514 5878; www.kuru fasulyeci.com; Professor S ı dd ı k Sami Onar Cadde si 11, Süleymaniye; beans with pilaf & pickles ₺ 17; h 8am-9pm; v ; m Vezneciler) Join the crowds of hungry locals at this long-time fasülyeci (restaurant specialising in beans) opposite the Süleymaniye Mosque. It’s been dishing up its signature kuru fasülye (white beans cooked in a spicy tomato sauce) accompa nied by pilaf (rice) and tur ş u (pickles) since 1924. The next-door fasülyeci is nearly as old and serves up more of the same. No alcohol. MAVI HALIÇ PIDECISI PIDE € Map p242 ( % 0212-513 6304; Kutucular Caddesi 28, Eminönü; pides ₺ 10-15; h 11am-6pm; j Em inönü) Fight your way through the crowds of shoppers that jam Has ı rc ı lar Caddesi and you’ll eventually come to this tiny pideci

on the corner of Limoncu Sokak, which is known for its k ı ymal ı (ground beef and to mato) pide. BAHAR RESTAURANT TURKISH € Map p95 (Ya ğ c ı Han 13, off Nuruosmaniye Sokak, Nuruosmaniye; soup ₺ 6, portions ₺ 10-16; h noon 4pm Mon-Sat; j Çemberlita ş ) Tiny Bahar (‘Spring’) is popular with local shopkeepers and is always full, so arrive early to score a table. Dishes change daily and with the season – try the flavourful soups and tasty KEBAP €€ Map p242 ( % 0212-444 6463; www.hamdi restorant.com.tr; Kalç ı n Sokak 11, Eminönü; mez es ₺ 11.50-26, kebaps ₺ 28-50; h noon-midnight; pac ; j Eminönü) One of the city’s best loved restaurants, this place near the Spice Bazaar is owned by Hamdi Arpac ı , who started out as a street-food vendor in the 1960s. His tasty Urfa-style kebaps were so popular that he soon graduated from his modest stand to this building, which has views of the Old City, Golden Horn and Galata from its top-floor terrace. The food is excellent. Try the yo ğ urtlu ş ak ş uka (yoghurt meze with fried egg plant, peppers and potato), the içli köfte (meatballs rolled in bulgur) and the lah macun (thin, meat-topped pizza) followed by any of the kebaps and you’ll leave replete and happy – extremely replete if you finish with the house-made baklava, katmer or künefe . Any place this good is always go ing to be busy, so make sure you book, and don’t forget to request a rooftop table with a view (outside if the weather is hot). One slight caveat: staff work hard and are clearly encouraged to turn tables over as fast as possible. Don’t expect much per sonal service, and be prepared for little time between courses. There’s another branch on the rooftop of the Radisson Blu Hotel in Beyo ğ lu (Map p248 ; % 0212-377 2500; http://hamdi.com.tr/ en/pera; Radisson Blu Hotel, Refik Saydam Cad desi 19, Tepeba ş ı ; mezes ₺ 11.50-26, kebaps ₺ 28 50; ac ; m Ş i ş hane, L Tünel) . SUR OCAKBA Ş I KEBAP €€ ( % 0212-533 8088; www.surocakbasi.com; İ tfaiye Caddesi 27, Fatih; kebaps ₺ 15-30; h 11am-1am; m Vezneciler) Indulge in some peerless peo ple watching while enjoying the grilled meats at this popular place in the Women’s Bazaar (p100). The square is always full of meat dishes. No alcohol. HAMDI RESTAURANT

BAZAAR DISTRICT EATING