Istanbul Guide

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h 9.30am-7pm Mon-Sat; j Çemberlita ş ) The Nuruosmaniye branch of this popular chain sells cashmere and silk-cashmere blend cardigans, jumpers, tops and shawls. All are remarkably well priced considering their quality. SOFA ART, JEWELLERY Map p242 ( % 0212-520 2850; www.kashifsofa. com; Nuruosmaniye Caddesi 53, Nuruosmaniye; h 9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Sat; j Çemberlita ş ) In vestigation of Sofa’s three floors of artfully arranged clutter reveals an eclectic range of pricey jewellery, prints, textiles, callig raphy, Ottoman miniatures and contempo rary Turkish art. ALI MUHIDDIN HACI BEKIR FOOD Map p242 ( % 0212-522 8543; www.hacibekir. com.tr; Hamidiye Caddesi 33, Eminönü; h 9am 7.30pm; j Eminönü) Many people think that this historic shop, which has been operated by members of the same family for over 200 years, is the best place in the city to buy lo kum (Turkish Delight). Choose from sade (plain), cevizli (walnut), f ı st ı kl ı (pistachio), badem (almond) or roze (rose water). There are other branches in Beyo ğ lu (p145) and FOOD Map p242 ( % 0212-513 3610; www.hafizmustafa. com; Hamidiye Caddesi 84, Eminönü; h 8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-8pm Sun; j Eminönü) S Lo cated opposite Ali Muh ı ddin Hac ı Bekir, Haf ı z Mustafa sells excellent lokum . (They’ve been creating sweet concoctions for more than 150 years, so they certainly know what they’re doing!) You can buy a small bag of freshly made treats to sam ple, plus gift boxes to take home. Best of all, staff are happy to let you taste before buying (within reason, of course). There are other branches in Sirkeci (p83) and Sultanahmet (p83). NIL BAHARAT SPICES Map p242 ( % 0212-527 0187; www.nilbaharat. com; Asmaalt ı Büyükba ş Sokak 1, Eminönü; h 7am-6pm Mon-Sat; j Eminönü) There are plenty of spices sold in the nearby M ı s ı r Çar ş ı s ı (Spice Bazaar), a two-minute walk or so away, but those sold at this shop on the western side of the bazaar tend to be both cheaper and fresher. Kad ı köy (p160). HAFIZ MUSTAFA

o ALTAN Ş EKERLEME FOOD & DRINKS Map p242 ( % 0212-522 5909; K ı ble Çe ş me Caddesi 68, Eminönü; h 8am-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm Sun; m Haliç) Kids aren’t the only ones who like candy stores. İ stanbullus of every age have been coming to this shop in the Küçük Pazar (Little Bazaar) precinct below the Süleymaniye Mosque since 1865, lured by its cheap and delecta ble lokum (Turkish Delight), helva (sweet made from sesame seeds) and akide (hard candy). MEKHANN TEXTILES Map p95 ( % 0212-519 9444; www.mekhann.com; Divrikli Sokak 49, Grand Bazaar; h 8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat; j Beyaz ı t-Kapal ı Çar ş ı ) Bolts of richly coloured, hand-woven silk from Uzbeki stan and a range of finely woven shawls join finely embroidered bedspreads and pillow slips on the crowded shelves of this Grand Bazaar store, which sets the bar high when it comes to quality and price. There’s another branch near the tram stop in Tophane. DERVI Ş TEXTILES Map p95 ( % 0212-528 7883; www.dervis.com; Hal ı c ı lar Sokak 51, Grand Bazaar; h 8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat; j Beyaz ı t-Kapal ı Çar ş ı ) Raw cotton and silk pe ş temals (bath wraps) share shelf space here with traditional Turkish dowry vests and engagement dresses. If these don’t take your fancy, the pure olive oil soaps and old hamam bowls are sure to step into the breach. There’s another branch (Map p95; Cebeci Han 10) in the Grand Bazaar, off Ya ğ l ı ç ı lar Caddesi. YAZMACI NECDET DANI Ş TEXTILES Map p95 (Ya ğ l ı kç ı lar Caddesi 57, Grand Bazaar; h 8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat; j Beyaz ı t-Kapal ı Çar ş ı ) Fashion designers and buyers from every corner of the globe know that, when in İ stanbul, this is where to come to source top-quality textiles. It’s crammed with bolts of fabric of every description – shiny, simple, sheer and sophisticated – as well as pe ş temals, scarves and clothes. Murat Dan ı ş next door is part of the same operation. SILK & CASHMERE CLOTHING Map p242 ( % 0212-528 5286; www.silkcashmere. com; Nuruosmaniye Caddesi 38, Nuruosmaniye;

BAZAAR DISTRICT SHOPPING