Istanbul Guide

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BAZAAR DISTRICT SHOPPING Map p242 ( % 0212-511 8414; www.daruzziyafe. com.tr; h 11am-11pm; m Vezneciler) Set in the former imaret (soup kitchen) of the Süleymaniye Mosque, this cafe has a gor geous courtyard, so is an excellent tea or coffee stop. The food is mediocre and not TEA GARDEN Map p242 ( Ş ifahane Caddesi 2, Süleymaniye; h 9am-11pm; m Vezneciler) Make your way down the stairs into the sunken court yard opposite the Süleymaniye Mosque to discover this outdoor teahouse, which is popular with students from the nearby theological college and İ stanbul Uni versity, who head here to enjoy çay and nargiles. KAHVE DÜNYASI CAFE Map p242 ( % 0212-527 3282; Nuruosmaniye Cad desi 79; h 7.30am-9.30pm; W ; j Çemberlita ş ) The name means ‘Coffee World’, and this coffee chain has the local world at its feet. The secret of its success lies in the huge coffee menu, reasonable prices, delicious chocolate spoons (yes, you read that cor rectly), comfortable seating and free wi-fi. The filter coffee is better than its espresso based alternatives. There’s another branch near the Spice Bazaar in Eminönü ( % 0212-520 0204; K ı z ı l Han Sokak 18; j Eminönü) . ETHEM TEZÇAKAR KAHVECI CAFE Map p95 ( % 0212-513 2133; Hal ı c ı lar Çar ş ı ş ı Sokak 61-63, Grand Bazaar; h 8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat; j Beyaz ı t-Kapal ı Çar ş ı ) Bekir Tezçakar’s fam ily has been at the helm of this tiny coffee PANDELI CAFE Map p242 ( % 0212-527 3909; www.pandeli.com. tr; Spice Bazaar, Eminönü; h 9am-7pm Mon-Sat; j Eminönü) Dating from 1901, Pandeli has three salons that are encrusted with stun ning turquoise-coloured İ znik tiles and also feature painted ceilings and chande liers. Though its location above the main entrance to the Spice Bazaar makes it a popular lunch spot for tourists (most lo cals wouldn’t dream of eating here), we suggest visiting for tea or coffee after lunch instead. DARÜZZIYAFE (FORMER SOUP KITCHEN) CAFE recommended. LALE BAHÇESI

shop for four generations. Smack bang in the middle of the bazaar’s most glamorous retail strip, its traditional brass-tray tables and wooden stools are a good spot to enjoy a break and watch the passing parade of shoppers. Ş ARK KAHVESI CAFE Map p95 (Oriental Coffee Shop; % 0212-512 1144; Ya ğ l ı kç ı lar Caddesi 134, Grand Bazaar; h 8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat; j Beyaz ı t-Kapal ı Çar ş ı ) The Ş ark’s arched ceiling betrays its former existence as part of a bazaar street – years ago some enterprising kahveci (coffee house owner) walled up several sides and turned it into a cafe. Located on one of the bazaar’s major thoroughfares, it’s popular with both stallholders and tourists, who enjoy tea, coffee (Turkish, espresso and fil ter) or a cold drink. 7 SHOPPING The city’s two most famous shopping destinations – the Grand and Spice Bazaars – are in this district. In between the two is the vibrant local shopping neighbourhood of Tahtakale. o ABDULLA NATURAL PRODUCTS TEXTILES, BATHWARE Map p95 ( % 0212-527 3684; www.abdulla.com; Hal ı c ı lar Sokak 60, Grand Bazaar; h 8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat; j Beyaz ı t-Kapal ı Çar ş ı ) The first of the Western-style designer stores to appear in this ancient marketplace, Abdulla sells top-quality cotton bed linen and towels, hand-spun woollen throws from eastern Turkey, cotton pe ş temals (bath wraps) and pure olive-oil soap. o EPOQUE ANTIQUES Map p95 ( % 0212-527 7865; Sandal Bedesten Sokak 38, Grand Bazaar; h 8.30am-7pm Mon Sat; j Beyaz ı t-Kapal ı Çar ş ı ) Serious antique shoppers should make their way to this old-fashioned business near the bazaar’s Nuruosmaniye Gate. Silver candlesticks and trays, enamelled cigarette cases, jewel lery, watches and an extraordinary range of icons are on offer in the elegant shop. The elderly owner and sales members are happy to welcome browsers.