Istanbul Guide

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1 SIGHTS KARIYE MUSEUM (CHORA CHURCH)

ing protostrator Michael Glabas Ducas’) and dates from 1315. It was the seat of the Christian Orthodox Patriarchate from 1455 to 1587, after which time it was converted into a mosque and named Fethiye (Con quest) to commemorate Sultan Murat III’s victories in Georgia and Azerbaijan. Part of the building still functions as a mosque, while this part is a deconsecrated museum. In the paracclesion, the most impressive of the mosaics are the Pantokrator and 12 Prophets adorning the dome, and the Dee sis (Christ with the Virgin and St John the Baptist) in the apse. PATRIARCHAL CHURCH OF ST GEORGE CHURCH Map p252 (St George in the Phanar; % 0212-531 9670; www.ec-patr.org; Sadrazam Ali Paşa Cad desi, Fener; h 8.30am-4.30pm; g 99, 99A, 99Y from Eminönü, 55T from Taksim) Dating from 1836, this church is part of the Greek Patri archate (p121 ) compound. Inside the church are artefacts including Byzantine mosa ics, religious relics and a wood-and-inlay patriarchal throne. The most eye-catching feature is an ornately carved wooden icon ostasis (screen of icons) that was restored and lavishly gilded in 1994. The patriarchal throne is in the middle of the nave. Made of walnut inlaid with ivory, mother-of-pearl and coloured wood, it is thought to date from the last years of Byzantium. Other treasures include the 11th-century mosaic icon that is on the south wall to the right of the iconostasis. This shows the Vir gin Mary holding and pointing to the Christ Child, and was originally created for the Byzantine church of Pammakaristos (now the Fethiye Museum). Look for the Column of Christ’s Flagella tion in the southern corner of the nave. The church claims that this is a portion of the column to which Jesus Christ was bound and whipped by Roman soldiers before the Crucifixion. It was supposedly brought to Constantinople by St Helen, mother of the first Christian emperor, Constantine. Note that the church is closed between 9.15am and 12.20pm for Sunday service when the Patriarch is in residence (usually once per month). Coming from Eminönü, get off the bus at the Fener stop, just after passing the Haliç Kebap restaurant on the left, and walk in land to find the church.

MUSEUM

See p114 . MIHRIMAH SULTAN MOSQUE MOSQUE Map p252 (Mihrimah Sultan Camii; Ali Kuşçu Sokak, Edirnekapı; g 28 from Eminönü, 87 from Taksim) The great Sinan put his stamp on the entire city and this mosque, constructed in the 1560s next to the Edirnekapı section of the historic land walls, is one of his best works. Commissioned by Süleyman the Magnifi cent’s favourite daughter, Mihrimah, it fea tures a wonderfully light and airy interior with delicate stained-glass windows and an unusual ‘bird cage’ chandelier. Occupying the highest point in the city, the mosque’s dome and one slender mina ret are major adornments to the skyline; they are particularly prominent on the road from Edirne. Sinan was in love with Mihri mah, who was married to grand vizier Rüstem Paşa, and he symbolised his frus trated affection in the symmetry between this mosque and its identically named counterpart in Üsküdar. As the sun sets behind this mosque, the moon rises behind the other – a reference to Mihrimah’s name, which means ‘sun and moon’ in Farsi. Remnants of the külliye (mosque com plex) include a still-functioning hamam (p122 ). FETHIYE MUSEUM MUSEUM Map p252 (Fethiye Müzesi, Church of Pammaka ristos; % 0212-635 1273; http://ayasofyamuzesi. gov.tr/en; Fethiye Caddesi, Çarşamba; ₺5; h 9am 7pm mid-Apr–late Oct, to 5pm late Oct–mid-Apr; g 99, 99A, 99Y from Eminönü, 55T from Taksim) Not long after the Conquest, Mehmet the Conqueror visited this 13th-century church to discuss theological questions with the Patriarch of the Orthodox Church. They talked in the southern side chapel known as the parecclesion, which is decorated with gold mosaics and is now open as a small museum. The church was endowed by a nephew of Emperor Michael VIII Palaeologos and built between 1292 and 1294. The chapel was endowed by the benefactor’s wife (the inscription around Christ’s head at the base of the half dome reads ‘The nun Maria gave the promise of salvation in the name of her husband, the victorious and deserv

Western Districts Sights