Istanbul Guide

118

Western Districts Sights The reason for this ongoing adulation is the ‘Tough’ Sultan Selim Mosque’s posi tion atop the Old City’s fifth hill. Its terrace has panoramic views over the Golden Horn (the mosque you see on the right is Sül emaniye Mosque) and is a popular picnic and relaxation spot. Selim’s türbe (tomb) is in the garden behind the mosque. The mosque is located in the fascinating Çarşamba district, one of the city’s most conservative enclaves. Women in black chadors and men with long beards and traditional clothing are seen everywhere, often hurrying to prayers at the İsmail Ağa Mosque, headquarters of the Nakşibendi Tarikatı, a Sufi sect. The huge sunken park next door was originally a 5th-century open Roman cistern; it’s now home to playing fields, basketball courts and an excellent children’s playground. The building itself, constructed be tween 1522 and 1529, has a simple but elegant design. Inside, its mother-of-pearl inlay and painted woodwork provide the most distinctive features. PHANAR GREEK ORTHODOX COLLEGE HISTORIC BUILDING Map p172 (Megali School, Great School, Kırmızı Mektep; Sancaktar Caddesi, Fener; g 99, 99A, 99Y from Eminönü, 55T from Taksim) Rising Hogwarts-like from the urban jumble, this Fener landmark, known locally as kırmızı kale (the red castle) for its castellated red brick facade, still functions as a Greek school. A small student body of some 50 pupils studies here. Built in the early 1880s, it was designed by Ottoman Greek archi tect Konstantinos Dimadis, who is known for his European chateaux. The institution within predates the Ottoman arrival in Constantinople, making it Turkey’s oldest educational body. YAVUZ SULTAN SELIM MOSQUE MOSQUE Map p172 (Sultan Selim Camii, Mosque of Yavuz Selim; Yavuz Selim Caddesi, Çarşamba; h tomb 9am-5pm; g 99, 99A, 99Y from Eminönü, 55T from Taksim) The sultan to whom this mosque was dedicated (Süleyman the Magnificent’s father, Selim I, known as the Grim) is famous for having killed two of his brothers, six of his nephews and three of his own sons in order to assure his succession and that of Süleyman. He did, however, lay the groundwork for his son’s imperial suc cess and, to this day, İstanbullus love his mosque.

For more information on the college and the area’s many intriguing piles, pick up a copy of tour guide Ahmet Faik Ozbilge’s fascinating historical tome, Nooks and Crannies of Old Istanbul: Fener, Balat, Ayvansaray. FATIH MOSQUE MOSQUE (Fatih Camii, Mosque of the Conqueror; Fevzi Paşa Caddesi, Fatih; g 28 from Eminönü, 87 from Taksim) The Fatih was the first great imperial mosque built in İstanbul follow ing the Conquest. Mehmet the Conqueror chose to locate it on the hilltop site of the ruined Church of the Apostles, burial place of Constantine and other Byzantine emper ors. Mehmet decided to be buried here as well; his tomb is behind the mosque and is inevitably filled with worshippers. The original külliye (mosque complex), finished in 1470, was enormous. Set in ex tensive grounds, it included 15 charitable establishments such as medreses (Islamic schools of higher studies), a hospice for travellers and a caravanserai. Many of these still stand; the most interesting is the multidomed tabhane (inn for travelling dervishes) to the southeast of the mosque. Its columns are said to have been originally used in the Church of the Apostles. Unfortunately the mosque you see today is not the one Mehmet built. The original stood for nearly 300 years before toppling in an earthquake in 1766. The current baroque-style mosque was constructed be tween 1767 and 1771. The front courtyard of the mosque is a favourite place for locals to congregate. On Wednesday the streets behind and to the north of the mosque host the Çarşamba Pazarı (Wednesday Market; Fatih Pazarı; Fatih; g 28 from Eminönü, 87 from Taksim) , selling food, clothing and household goods. EYÜP SULTAN MOSQUE MOSQUE Map p172 (Eyüp Sultan Camii, Mosque of the Great Eyüp; Camii Kebir Sokak, Eyüp; h tomb 9.30am 4.30pm; g 99, 99A, 99Y from Eminönü, 55T from Taksim, f Eyüp) This important complex marks the supposed burial place of Ebu Eyüp el-Ensari, a friend of the Prophet who fell in battle outside the walls of Constan tinople while carrying the banner of Islam during the Arab assault and siege of the city (AD 674 to 678). His tomb is İstanbul’s most important Islamic shrine. Eyüp’s grave was identified in a location outside the city walls immediately after the