Istanbul Guide

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6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

Western Districts Drinking & Nightlife Map p252 ( % 0539 280 3749; Yıldırım Caddesi 23, Fener; mains ₺15; h 8am-7pm; W ; g 99, 99A, 99Y from Eminönü, 55T from Taksim) Expats eagerly consume the wi-fi, excellent choc olate brownies (₺8) and less impressive coffee (₺7) at this friendly neighbourhood spot, which fills with İstanbullus on sun ny weekends. The limited menu includes mantı (Turkish ravioli), chicken or hale oumi salad and a breakfast platter (₺20). The mellow and welcoming atmosphere also makes it a great place for a drink and people watching. o ASITANE OTTOMAN €€€ Map p252 ( % 0212-635 7997; www.asitane restaurant.com; Kariye Oteli, Kariye Camii Sokak 6, Edirnekapı; starters ₺18-28, mains ₺58; h noon-10.30pm; v ; g 28 from Eminönü, 87 from Taksim, f Ayvansaray) This elegant res taurant next to the Kariye Museum serves Ottoman dishes devised for the palace kitchens at Topkapı, Edirne and Dolma bahçe. Its chefs have been tracking down historic recipes for years, and the menu is full of versions that will tempt most mod ern palates, including vegetarian. In the pretty outdoor courtyard or some what bland interior, try dishes such as stuffed quince, goose kebap or the ‘fatty apron’ kebap, featuring lamb and beef wrapped in caul (stomach lining) fat. atmosphere. The mezes are so so, but the menu comes into its own with the seafood mains (₺25), which are excellent. Enter from either Mürselpaşa Caddesi or Leblebi ciler Sokak. FORNO PIDE, BREAKFAST €€ Map p252 ( % 0212-521 2900; www.fornobalat. com; Fener Kireçhane Sokak 13, Fener; pides & piz za ₺16-21; h 10am-8.30pm Tue-Fri, from 9.30am Sat & Sun; g 99, 99A, 99Y from Eminönü, 55T from Taksim) In a bright and informal space dominated by a long kitchen table, Forno serves delicious pide, pizza and lahmacun (Arabic-style pizza). The weekend breakfast buffet (₺35) is a rich spread replete with towers of bread and mini vegetable kebaps, and the organic apricot soufflé and frozen chocolate cake are delectable. AZIZ CAFE CAFE €€

Vodina Caddesi offers the best selection of cafes. Much of the Golden Horn (Haliç) hinterland is conservative Islamic territory and the whole area is CAFE Map p172 (Gümüşsuyu Balmumcu Sokak 1, Eyüp; h 8am-midnight; f Eyüp) Many visitors head to this hilltop cafe after visiting the Eyüp Sultan Mosque (p 118 ). Named for the fa mous French novelist who is said to have come here for inspiration, it offers lovely views across the Golden Horn and is a popular weekend destination for locals, who relax over tea, coffee, ice cream and nargiles (water pipes). A cable car (one way ₺4.00; cheaper on an Istanbulkart) to the cafe leaves from near the mosque. COFFEE DEPARTMENT COFFEE Map p252 ( % 0532 441 6663; http://coffee department.co; Kürçü Çeşmesi Sokak 5a, Balat; h 10am-8pm; g 99, 99A, 99Y from Eminönü, 55T from Taksim) Decked out with big sacks of coffee and wood-and-metal seating, this caffeine-besotted cafe roasts its own beans, and sells bags of coffee and filter drip coffee-making kits. Kenyan, Ethio pian and Costa Rican beans are on offer, with the Latin American selection set to increase. The Costa Rican makes a smooth flat white (₺9) with apple-pie and milk chocoloate tastes. 2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES MIHRIMAH SULTAN HAMAMI HAMAM Map p252 ( % 0212-523 0487; www.mihrimah sultanhamami.com; Fevzi Paşa Caddesi 333, Edirnekapı; bath ₺25, incl scrub & massage ₺45; h men 7am-11pm, women 9am-8pm; g 28 from Eminönü, 87 from Taksim) Visit this restored hamam for an affordable and authentic ex perience. It lacks the architectural beauty of its counterparts in Sultanahmet, but is satisfyingly clean and has a friendly neigh bourhood atmosphere. There are separate sections for men and women. quiet after dark. PIERRE LOTI CAFÉ