Istanbul Guide

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THE ECUMENICAL PATRIARCHATE The Ecumenical Patriarchate of Constantinople (Rum Ortodoks Patrikhanesi; Map p252; % 0212-531 9670; www.ec-patr.org; Sadrazam Ali Paşa Caddesi, Fener; g 99, 99A, 99Y from Eminönü, 55T from Taksim) is the symbolic headquarters of the Greek Orthodox Church, and one of the most significant sites in the larger Eastern Orthodox Church. It has been led by 270 Ecumenical Patriarchs since its establishment in 330 AD. To the Turkish government, the Ecumenical Patriarch is a Turkish citizen of Greek descent nominated by the church and appointed by the government as an official in the Directorate of Religious Affairs. In this capacity the patriarch is the religious lead er of the country’s Orthodox citizens and is known officially as the Greek Patriarch of Fener (Fener Rum Patriği). The Patriarchate has been based in a series of churches over its history, including Hagia Eirene (Aya İrini; 272–398), Hagia Sofya (Aya Sofya; 398–1453) and the Church of Pammakaristos (Fethiye Museum; 1456–1587). It moved to its current location in Fener in 1601. The relationship between the Patriarchate and the wider Turkish community has been strained in the past, no more so than when Patriarch Gregory V was hanged for treason after inciting Greeks to overthrow Ottoman rule at the start of the Greek War of Independence (1821–32). Current tensions are focused on the Turkish government’s refusal to allow the the Patriarchate to reopen the Orthodox Theological School of Halki, located on Heybe liada in the Princes’ Islands. Opened in 1844, the school was closed by government order in 1971. The US Commission on International Religious Freedom (USCIRF) is one of the organisations calling on Turkey to reopen the seminary.

Western Districts Eating

5 EATING Head to the Vodina Caddesi area for a mix of hip cafes, excellent restaur- ants neighbourhood bakeries and supermarkets catering to locals. KÖMÜR TURK MUTFAĞI TURKISH € ( % 0212-521 9999; www.komurturkmutfagi. com; Fevzi Paşa Caddesi 18, Fatih; veg portion ₺7-8, meat portion ₺10-15, grills ₺13-32; h 5am 11pm; v ; g 28 from Eminönü, 87 from Taksim) Located amid the wedding-dress shops on Fatih’s main drag is this five-floor Türk mutfağı (Turkish kitchen) where brides to-be join businesspeople and worshippers from the nearby Fatih Mosque for lunch. The gleaming ground-floor space has a huge counter where ready-made dishes are displayed and where fresh meat and fish can be cooked to order. AGORA MEYHANESI TURKISH €€ Map p252 ( % 0212-631 2136; www.agora meyhanesi.com; Mürselpaşa Caddesi 185, Balat; h 11am-midnight; W ; g 99, 99A, 99Y from Em inönü, 55T from Taksim) Dating from 1890, this city institution has recently changed hands but its new owner, Turkish film actor and director Ezel Akay, has worked hard to retain its traditional rakı-soaked

The church is usually open on weekends. If the doors aren’t open, ring the bell on the outside gate to attract the attention of the caretaker. CHURCH OF ST STEPHEN OF THE BULGARS CHURCH Map p172 (Sveti Stefan Church; Mürsel Paşa Cad desi 85, Fener; g 99, 99A, 99Y from Eminönü, 55T from Taksim) These days we’re accustomed to kit homes and we self-assemble fur niture from Ikea but, back in 1871, when this Gothic Revival–style church was con structed from cast-iron pieces shipped down the Danube and across the Black Sea from Vienna on 100 barges, the idea was extremely novel. The building’s interior features screens, a balcony and columns all cast from iron. It is extremely beautiful, with the gilded iron glinting in the hazy light that filters in through stained-glass windows. The congregation comprises members of the Bulgarian Orthodox Exarchate (Bul garian Orthodox Church), which broke away from the Greek Ecumenical Orthodox Patriarchate in 1872. This is the church’s İstanbul base. The building was closed for restoration at the time of research.