Istanbul Guide

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BALIK PAZARI Opposite the grandiose entrance to the 1868 Galatasaray Lycée (Galatasaray Lisesi, High School; Map p244; m Taksim) , one of the city’s most prestigious educational institu tions, is the much-loved Balık Pazarı (Fish Market; Map p248; Şahne Sokak, off İstiklal Caddesi, Galatasaray; m Taksim ). At its entrance are stands selling midye tava (skewered mussels fried in hot oil), kokoreç (seasoned lamb or mutton intestines wrapped around a skewer and grilled over charcoal) and other snacks. Further inside are shops sell ing fish, caviar, fruit, vegetables and other produce; most of these are in Duduodaları Sokak on the left (southern) side of the market. Many of the shops have been here for close on a century and have extremely loyal clienteles. Check out Sütte Şarküteri (Map p244; % 0212-293 9292; Duduodaları Sokak 13; h 8am-10pm; m Taksim) for its delicious charcuterie, kaymak (clotted cream) and takeaway sandwiches; Üç Yıldız Şekerleme (Map p244; % 0212-293 8170; www.ucyildiz sekerleme.com; Duduodaları Sokak 7; h 7am-8.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-6pm Sun; m Şişhane, j Tünel) for jams, lokum (Turkish Delight) and sweets; Petek Turşuları (Map p244; % 0212-249 1324; Duduodaları Sokak; h 8.30am-8pm Mon-Sat; j Kabataş, then funicular to Taksim) for pickles; and Reşat Balık Market (Map p244; % 0212-293 6091; www.resatba likmarket.com; Sahne Sokak 8b; m Taksim) for caviar and the city’s best lakerda (strongly flavoured salted bonito). At 24a Şahne Sokak, look for the gigantic black doors to the courtyard of the Üç Horan Ermeni Kilisesi (Armenian Church of Three Altars; Map p244; Sahne Sokak 24a; j Kabataş, then funicular to Taksim) , an Armenian church dating from 1838. Visitors can enter providing the doors are open. On the opposite side of the street is the neoclassi cal Avrupa Pasajı (European Passage; Map p244; m Taksim) , an attractive arcade full of shops that once sold antiques, but now seem to stock little except tourist tat.

Beyoğlu Sights

Mevlevihaneleri (Mevlevi tekkes ) remaining in İstanbul, the complex was converted into a museum in 1946. The Mevlevi tarika (order), founded in the central Anatolian city of Konya during the 13th century, flourished throughout the Ot toman Empire. Like several other orders, the Mevlevis stressed the unity of humankind before God, regardless of creed. Taking their name from the great Sufi mystic and poet Celaleddin Rumi (1207–73), called Mevlana (Our Leader) by his disciples, Mevlevis seek to achieve mystical communion with God through a sema (ceremony) involving chants, prayers, music and a whirling dance. This tekke’s first şeyh (sheikh) was Şemaî Mehmed Çelebi, a grandson of the great Mevlana. Dervish orders were banned in the early days of the Turkish Republic because of their ultraconservative religious politics. Although the ban has been lifted, only a handful of functioning tekkes remain in İstanbul, in cluding this one and the İstanbul Bilim Sanat Kültür ve Eğitim Derneği in Fatih. Konya re mains the heart of the Mevlevi order. Beneath the semahane is an interesting exhibit that includes displays of Mevlevi clothing, turbans and accessories. The mah filler (upstairs floor) houses the tekke’s col lection of traditional musical instruments,

calligraphy and ebru (paper marbling). The hamuşan is full of stones with graceful Ot toman inscriptions, including the tomb of Galip Dede, the 17th-century Sufi poet whom the street is named after. The shapes atop the stones reflect the headgear of the deceased, each hat denoting a different religious rank. GALATA TOWER TOWER Map p248 (Galata Kulesi; www.galatakulesi.org; Galata Meydanı, Galata; adult/child under 12yr ₺25/5; h 9am-8.30pm; j Karaköy, j Tünel) The cylindrical Galata Tower stands sentry over the approach to ‘new’ İstanbul. Constructed in 1348 it was the tallest structure in the city for centuries and it still dominates the sky line north of the Golden Horn. Its vertigi nous upper balcony offers 360-degree views of the city, but we’re not convinced that the view (though spectacular) justifies the steep admission cost. Be warned that queues can be long and the viewing balcony can get horribly overcrowded. An elevator goes most of the way to the top, but there is one flight of stairs to climb. CHRIST CHURCH CHURCH Map p248 (Crimean Memorial Church; Serdar-i Ekrem Sokak 52, Galata; donation requested; h services 10am Sun; j Tophane) The corner-