Istanbul Guide

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stone of this Gothic-style Anglican church was laid in 1858 by Lord Stratford de Red cliffe, known as ‘The Great Elchi’ ( elçi meaning ambassador) because of his para mount influence in mid-19th-century Otto man affairs. The largest of the city’s Prot estant churches, it was dedicated in 1868 as the Crimean Memorial Church and re stored and renamed in the mid-1990s. Inside, there is a painted rood screen by Scottish artist Mungo McCosh that depicts notable İstanbul residents (mainly expats). Services are so wonderfully High that they would almost be at home at St Peter’s. AZAPKAPI SOKOLLU MEHMET PAŞA MOSQUE MOSQUE Map p248 (Tersane Caddesi; m Haliç) This pretty mosque, designed by Sinan and built in 1577, is unusual in that it, and the minaret, are raised on a platform. It was commissioned by Sokollu Mehmet Paşa, a grand vezir of Süleyman the Magnificent. Today it’s totally overshadowed by the approach to Atatürk/ Unkapanı Bridge. Still it’s well worth a vis it, particularly for its fine marble mihrab (niche in a minaret indicating the direction of Mecca) and mimber (pulpit in a mosque). The nearby rococo fountain was built by Saliha Valide Hatun, mother of Mahmut I. In 2016 the İstanbul Metropolitan Mu nicipality announced a plan to demolish Atatürk Bridge and replace it with a US$34 million tunnel under the Golden Horn connecting the Unkapanı and Kasımpaşa districts. The project’s estimated comple tion date is 2018. If this does eventuate, the mosque will reclaim its grand setting and once again be listed among the city’s most impressive imperial mosques. ARAB MOSQUE MOSQUE Map p248 (Arap Camıı; Galata Mahkemesi Sokak, Galata; j Karaköy) Built by the Genoese in 1337, this fortress-like mosque was the larg est of İstanbul’s Latin churches. Converted to a mosque after the Conquest, it was given to the recently arrived community of Spanish Muslims after their expulsion from Spain in the late 15th century. Notable fea tures include the stone exterior and a mag nificent wooden ceiling. SALT GALATA CULTURAL CENTRE Map p248 ( % 0212-334 2200; www.saltonline. org/en; Bankalar Caddesi 11, Karaköy; h noon 8pm Tue-Sat, to 6pm Sun; j Karaköy) F The descriptor ‘cultural centre’ is used a lot in

İstanbul, but is often a misnomer. Here at SALT Galata it really does apply. Housed in a magnificent 1892 bank building designed by Alexandre Vallaury and cleverly adapted by local architectural firm Mimarlar Tasarım, the cutting-edge institution offers an exhibi tion space, auditorium, arts research library, cafe and glamorous restaurant. Funded by the Garanti Bank, SALT aims to be a centre of learning and debate in the city and hosts regular conferences, lectures and workshops. The building also houses a small Ottoman Bank Museum. DEPO CULTURAL CENTRE Map p248 ( % 0212-292 3956; www.depoistanbul. net; Lüleci Hendek Caddesi 12, Tophane; h 11am 7pm Tue-Sun; j Tophane) F Occupying a former tobacco warehouse, this alternative space is operated by Anadolu Kültür (www. anadolukultur.org), a not-for-profit organi sation that facilitates artistic collaboration, promotes cultural exchange and stimulates debates on social and political issues rele vant to Turkey, the South Caucasus, the Mid dle East and the Balkans. It hosts talks, art exhibitions and film screenings. GALLERY Map p248 ( % 0212-708 5800; www.arter.org.tr; İstiklal Caddesi 211; h 11am-7pm Tue-Thu, noon 8pm Fri-Sun; m Şişhane, j Tünel) F A stun ning marble spiral staircase, prominent location on İstiklal Caddesi and an inter national exhibition program featuring the likes of Mona Hatoum, Sarkis, Marc Quinn, Patricia Piccinini and Sophia Pompéry make this four-floor art space one of the most prestigious art venues in town. ÇIÇEK PASAJI HISTORIC BUILDING Map p244 (Flower Passage; İstiklal Caddesi; m Tak sim) Back when promenading down the Grand Rue de Pera (now İstiklal Caddesi) was the height of fashion, the Cité de Pera building was İstanbul’s most glamorous ad dress. Built in 1876 and decorated in Second Empire style, it housed a shopping arcade and apartments. The arcade is now known 1 İstiklal & Around İSTIKLAL CADDESI STREET See p125. PERA MUSEUM MUSEUM See p126. ARTER

Beyoğlu Sights