Istanbul Guide

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MAVRA CAFE € Map p248 ( % 0212-252 7488; Serdar-ı Ekrem Cad desi 31, Galata; breakfast ₺16-32, sandwiches ₺12-24, pastas ₺18-22; h 9.30am-1am; Wv ; m Şişhane, j Tünel) Serdar-ı Ekrem Caddesi is one of the most interesting streets in Galata, full of ornate 19th-century apartment blocks and avant-garde boutiques. Mavra was the first of the cafes to open on the strip, and re mains one of the best, offering simple food and drinks amid thrift-shop chic decor. NAMLI GURME DELI € Map p248 ( % 0212-293 6880; http://namligurme. com.t/; Rıhtım Caddesi 1, Karaköy; breakfast plate ₺19.50, sandwiches ₺6-14, mezes ₺38 per 1kg; h 7am-10pm; aWv ; j Karaköy) As well as being one of the best delicatessens in the city, Namlı offers a tempting sit-down or takeaway selection of breakfast dishes, sand wiches, salad and mezes. Its weekend brunch is justly famous (expect to queue for a table), with patrons choosing from the meze array and paying by the weight of their plate. o KARAKÖY LOKANTASI TURKISH €€ Map p248 ( % 0212-292 4455; www.karakoy lokantasi.com; Kemankeş Caddesi 37a, Karaköy; mezes ₺10-24, lunch portions ₺13-25, mains ₺28 55; h noon-4pm & 6pm-midnight Mon-Sat, 6pm midnight Sun; aW ; j Karaköy) Known for its gorgeous tiled interior, genial owner and bustling vibe, Karaköy Lokantası serves tasty and well-priced food to its loyal local clientele. It functions as a lokanta (eatery serving ready-made food) during the day, but at night it morphs into a meyhane (tav ern), with slightly higher prices. Bookings are essential for dinner. KARAKÖY GÜMRÜK MODERN TURKISH €€ Map p248 ( % 0212-244 2252; http://karakoy gumruk.com.tr; Gümrük Sokak 4, Karaköy; snacks & small plates ₺22-45, mains ₺23-52; h 10am-mid night Mon-Sat; aW ; j Karaköy) An exemplar of the casually stylish restaurant model that has been trending in İstanbul for a few years now, Gümrük has a menu that changes each day according to what’s fresh at the mar ket. Dishes are often clever twists on classic Turkish street food – think beautifully pre sented pilafs, flavourful offal dishes and a delectable balık ekmek (fish sandwich). DANDIN CAFE €€ Map p248 ( % 0212-245 3369; www.dandin.co; Kılıçalipaşa Mescidi Sokak 17a, Karaköy; sandwiches ₺21-26, cakes ₺8-15; h 10am-11pm Sun-Thu, to mid night Fri & Sat; aWv ; j Tophane) A decadent

array of cakes and pastries provide the head line act at this happening cafe, with savoury treats, including pizzas and sandwiches, sup plying a trusty backup. The loft-like white space, with its hanging brass lamps and huge tiled counter, is a lovely environment in which to enjoy them accompanied by fresh juice, good espresso coffee or herbal tea. GÜNEY TURKISH €€ Map p248 ( % 0212-249 0393; www.guney restaurant.com; Galata Kulesı Meydanı 2, Galata; mezes ₺8-24, grills ₺21-44; h 8am-1am; vc ; j Karaköy, j Tünel) Once a reliable but no-frills lokanta, Güney has been spruced up recently but has retained its loyal local following. The outdoor tables are popular with smokers and beer drinkers, but it’s more demure inside. Diners can choose from the offerings in the bain-marie or order pizza, pasta, sandwiches and grills from the friendly waiters. CAFE PRIVATO CAFE €€ Map p248 ( % 0212-293 2055; Tımarcı Sokak 3b, Galata; breakfast ₺40; h 9am-10.30pm; Wv ; m Şişhane, j Tünel) The enclave off Galipdede Caddesi in Galata has been reinvented in the past couple of years, trading in its rough-and ready heritage for hipster credentials. Priva to is one of the best-loved of the recent cafe arrivals and is well worth visiting for its köy kahvaltası (village breakfast) or for a drink (espresso and Turkish coffee, range of herbal teas, house-made limonata – lemonade). o NEOLOKAL MODERN TURKISH €€€ Map p248 ( % 0212-244 0016; www.neolokal. com; 1st fl, SALT Galata, Bankalar Caddesi 11, Karaköy; mains ₺42-62; h 6-11pm Tue-Sun; aW ; j Karaköy) Chef Maksut Aşkar opened this swish eatery in late 2014 and has been wow ing local and international diners with his exciting twists on traditional Turkish food ever since. Utilising ingredients listed on the Slow Food Foundation’s Ark of Taste, his refined and delicious dishes are enjoyed alongside the spectacular Old City views offered from both the dining room and terrace. The restaurant is accessed via a staircase in the ground-floor cafe – sadly, the food served there is nowhere near as impressive as its upstairs counterpart. 5 İstiklal & Around o HAYVORE LOKANTA € Map p244 ( % 0212-245 7501; www.hayvore.com; Turnacıbaşı Sokak 4, Galatasaray; soups ₺6-10,

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