Istanbul Guide

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stop for art-goers. Pop in for coffee and cake, or opt for something more substantial – it serves pastas, sandwiches and salads and even has an alcohol licence. ASMALI CANIM CIĞERIM ANATOLIAN € Map p248 (Minare Sokak 1, Asmalımescit; por tion ₺26, half portion ₺18, dürüm ₺14; m Șişhane, j Tünel) The name means ‘my soul, my liver’, and this small place behind the Ali Hoca Türbesi specialises in grilled liver served with herbs, ezme (spicy tomato sauce) and grilled vegetables. If you can’t bring yourself to eat offal, fear not – you can substitute the liver with lamb. No alcohol, but ayran (yo gurt drink) is the perfect accompaniment. ZENCEFIL VEGETARIAN € Map p244 ( % 0212-243 8234; Kurabiye Sokak 8; soup ₺9, mains ₺15-21; h 10am-11pm Mon-Sat, noon-10pm Sun; Wv ; m Taksim) We’re not sur prised this vegetarian cafe has a loyal follow ing. Its interior is comfortable and stylish, with a glassed courtyard and bright colour scheme, and its food is 100% homemade, fresh and varied. Dishes are either vegetar ian or vegan and are available in small and large sizes. There’s a small cover charge for the home-baked bread and herb butter. ‘Ze ncefil’ means ‘ginger’ in Turkish, and the cafe makes its own ginger beer and ginger ale. You can order wine by the glass and fresh li monata (lemonade) served with vodka. o ANTIOCHIA SOUTHEASTERN ANATOLIA €€ Map p248 ( % 0212-244 0820; www.antiochia concept.com; General Yazgan Sokak 3, Tünel; mezes & salads ₺13-18, pides ₺21-22, kebaps ₺24-52; h noon-midnight Mon-Sat; aWc ; j Tünel) Dishes from the southeastern city of Antakya (Hatay) are the speciality here. Cold mezes feature olives and wild herbs, and hot choices include delicious içli köfte (ground lamb and onion with a bulgar coat ing)and özel peyniri (special fried cheese). Kebaps are exceptional – try the succulent şiş et (grilled lamb). Set dinner meals offer excellent value and there’s a 20% discount at lunch, when pides reign supreme. o ZÜBEYIR OCAKBAŞI KEBAP €€ Map p244 ( % 0212-293 3951; Bekar Sokak 28; mezes ₺10, kebaps ₺28-38; h noon-midnight; aW ; m Taksim) Every morning the chefs at this popular ocakbaşı (grill house) prepare the fresh, top-quality meats – spicy chicken wings and Adana kebaps, flavoursome ribs, pungent liver kebaps and well-marinated

pides ₺16-23, portions ₺10-20; h 11.30am-11pm; aWc ; m Taksim) Notable lokantas (tradi tional eateries serving ready-made dishes) are few and far between in modern-day Beyoğlu, so the existence of this bustling place next to the Galatasaray Lycée is to be wholeheartedly celebrated. Specialising in Black Sea cuisine, its delicious leafy greens, pilafs, hamsi (fresh anchovy) dishes, soups and pides (Turkish-style pizza) are best en joyed at lunch – go early to score a table. HELVETIA LOKANTA TURKISH € Map p248 ( % 0212-245 8780; General Yazgan Sokak 8a, Tünel; mixed plate ₺12.50-15; h noon 10pm Mon-Sat; v ; m Şişhane, j Tünel) This tiny lokanta with its open kitchen is popu lar with locals, who head here to enjoy the freshly prepared, vegetarian-friendly fare. Choose up to five of the home-style dishes for your plate and enjoy them in the relaxed dining space. No alcohol, and cash only. İNCI PASTANESI DESSERTS € Map p244 (Mis Sokak 18; profiteroles ₺7; h 7am midnight; a ; m Taksim) A Beyoğlu institution, İnci was forced out of its historic İstiklal Cad desi premises in 2012, but has reopened here and continues to delight devotees with its profiteroles covered in chocolate sauce. We’re also particularly partial to the moist choco late cake filled with candied fruit, but usually ask the staff to hold the chocolate topping. ÇUKUR MEYHANE TURKISH € Map p244 ( % 0212-244 5575; basement, Kartal Sokak 1a, Galatasaray; mezes ₺7-10, mains ₺15 20; h 6pm-1am Mon-Sat; a ; m Taksim) Despite their long and much-vaunted tradition in the city, it is becoming increasingly difficult to find meyhanes (taverns) serving good food. Standards have dropped in many of our old favourites (sob!), and we’re constantly on the search for replacements. Fortunately, Çukur fits the bill. On offer are a convivial cafeteria-style atmosphere, great food and relatively cheap prices. No English spoken. PERA CAFÉ CAFE € Map p244 (www.peramuseum.org; Pera Museum, Meşrutiyet Caddesi 65, Tepebaşı; sandwiches ₺15-16, pastas ₺18-20, cakes ₺7-12; h 10am-7pm Tue-Thu & Sat, to 10pm Fri, noon-6pm Sun; aW ; m Şişhane, j Tünel) Decorated in art deco style (as befits its location in a building that originally housed the swish Bristol Hotel), this ground-floor cafe in the Pera Museum is a comfortable and extremely convenient pit

Beyoğlu Eating