Istanbul Guide

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wood-fired oven produces vegetable güveçs (stews), lahmacun s (Arabic pizzas) and pi des (Turkish-style pizza), all of which can be taken away or enjoyed in the tiny upstairs dining area. JOURNEY CAFE €€ Mapp248( % 0212-2448989; www.journeycihangir. com; Akarsu Yokuşu 21a, Cihangir; sandwiches ₺19-22, salads ₺19-24, mains ₺18-44; h 9am-2am Tue-Sun, to 1am Mon; Wvc ; m Taksim) This laid-back lounge cafe located in the expat enclave of Cihangir serves a great range of Mediterranean comfort foods, including sandwiches, soups, pizzas and pastas. Many of the dishes use organic produce and veg etarian, vegan and gluten-free options are on offer. Locals have been known to claim the front couch for breakfast and stay put PIZZA €€ Map p244 ( % 0212-249 0048; Turnacıbaşı Cad desi 49, Çukurcuma; pizzas ₺18-40; h 10.30am 10.30pm; aWvc ; m Taksim) A hipster vibe, mellow jazz soundtrack and Italian-style pizzas are the drawcards at this neighbour hood favourite. We’re fans of the cheap ‘desperate house wine’ (an extremely quaf fable red from Yunatçılar winery on the Aegean island of Bozcaada) and also of the pizza with thyme, mozzarella and pastırma (pressed beef preserved in spices). Check the Facebook feed for details of weekly live jazz sessions. JASH ANATOLIAN €€ Map p248 ( % 0212-244 3042; www.jashistanbul. com; Cihangir Caddesi 9, Cihangir; mezes ₺8-28, mains ₺24-50; h noon-2am; a ; m Taksim) Arme nian specialities such as topik (a cold meze made with chickpeas, pistachios, onion, flour, currants, cumin and salt) make an ap pearance on the menu of this bijou meyhane in trendy Cihangir. Come on the weekend, when there’s live music and unusual dishes including harisa (chicken with a hand forged wheat and butter sauce) are on offer. KAHVE 6 CAFE €€ Map p248 ( % 0212-293 0849; Anahtar Sokak 13, Cihangir; breakfast dishes ₺16-23, sandwiches ₺12-23, pastas ₺18-22; h 9am-10pm; Wv ; m Taksim) An expat haven in Cihangir, Kah ve Altı (Coffee 6) has a pretty interior salon and a sunny rear courtyard. The menu is simple, but deserves kudos for emphasising local, natural and seasonal (often organic) produce. No alcohol. until closing time. ÇUKURCUMA 49

over two floors and are almost always full, so bookings are essential. AHESTE MODERN TURKISH €€€ Map p248 ( % 0212-243 2633; www.aheste restaurant.com; Meşrutiyet Caddesi 107, Asmalımescit; breakfast plate ₺36, mezes ₺13-31, mains ₺38-67; h 6pm-midnight Mon-Fri, 9am 3pm & 6pm-midnight Sat & Sun; av ; m Şişhane, j Tünel) A perfect example of the design driven eatery that has been trending in İstanbul over the past few years, Aheste is known for its attractive, mood-lit interior and excellent weekend breakfast/brunch. Dinners can be uneven in quality – we’ve enjoyed delicious mezes here, but have been disappointed with our main courses. MIKLA MODERN TURKISH €€€ Map p248 ( % 0212-293 5656; www.miklarestaurant. com; Marmara Pera Hotel, Meşrutiyet Caddesi 15, Tepebaşı; 3-course set menu ₺185, 7-course tasting menu ₺265, wine match ₺165; h 6pm-1am Mon Sat; a ; m Şişhane, j Tünel) The only Turkish restaurant to feature on San Pellegrino’s ‘World’s 100 Best Restaurants’ list, Mikla is fronted by local celebrity chef Mehmet Gürs. Sadly, we’ve found our recent meals here dis appointingly executed, lacking both flavour and innovation. At these prices, diners should be delivered more than extraordinary views and luxe surrounds. Vegetarians should steer clear, as meat and fish dominate. 5 Çukurcuma & Cihangir SAVOY PASTANESI CAFE € Map p244 ( % 0212-249 1818; www.savoypastanesi. com; Sıraselviler Caddesi 91a, Cihangir; börek ₺7, millefeuille ₺7.50; h 7am-11pm Mon-Sat; Wc ; m Taksim) İstanbul has many businesses that have attained iconic status and Savoy is un doubtedly one of them. Down the hill from Taksim Meydanı, it was established in 1950 and is known for its delicious cakes (espe cially the decadently creamy millefeuille ), milk puddings, biscuits and börek . Sit up stairs or on the streetside terrace. DATLI MAYA BAKERY € Map p248 ( % 0212-292 9057; www.datlimaya.com; Türkgücü Caddesi 59, Cihangir; breakfast dishes ₺10-35, pides ₺10-22, lahmacuns ₺5-7, cakes & pastries ₺5-10; h 9am-10pm Tue-Sun; Wv ; m Taksim) A tiny cafe-bakery located behind the Firuz Ağa Mosque in Cihangir, Datlı Maya is particularly popular with vegetar ians, vegans and the gluten-free. The old

Beyoğlu Eating