Istanbul Guide

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lamb şış kebaps – to be grilled over hand some copper-hooded barbecues that night. Their offerings are famous throughout the city, so booking a table is essential. SOFYALI 9 TURKISH €€ Map p248 ( % 0212-252 3810; www.sofyali.com.tr; Sofyalı Sokak 9, Asmalımescit; mezes ₺5.50-26, mains ₺26-52; h 1pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat; avc ; m Taksim, j Tünel) Tables at this meyhane are hot property on a Friday or Saturday night, when locals flock here to en joy the tasty food and convivial atmosphere. Regulars tend to stick to mezes, choosing cold dishes from the waiter’s tray and order ing kalamar tava (fried calamari), folyoda ahtapot (grilled octopus in foil) and Anavut ciğeri (Albanian fried liver) from the menu. KAFE ARA CAFE €€ Map p244 ( % 0212-245 4105; http://kafeara.com; Tosbağ Sokak 2, Galatasaray; sandwiches ₺24-34, pastas ₺26-28, mains ₺26-40; h 7.30am-11pm Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri, 10.30am-1am Sat, 10am-11pm Sun; Wv ; m Şişhane, j Tünel) This casual cafe occupies a converted garage in a lane oppo site the Galatasaray Lycée and is named af ter legendary local photographer Ara Güler, whose photographs of the city adorn the walls. It serves an array of well-priced sal ads, sandwiches and Turkish comfort food. Enjoying Sunday brunch (₺35) at one of the lane tables is particularly pleasant. No alco hol. KLEMURI ANATOLIAN €€ Map p244 ( % 0212-292 3272; www.klemuri.com; 1st fl, Büyük Parmakkapı Sokak 2; soup ₺6-7, mains ₺15-26; h noon-11pm Mon-Sat; Wv ; m Taksim) The Laz people hail from the Black Sea re gion, and their cuisine relies heavily on fish, kale and dairy products. One of only a few Laz restaurants in the city, Klemuri serves home-style cooking in bohemian surrounds. There are plenty of choices for vegetarians and vegans and a dessert (Laz böreği ; ₺10 ) that has attained a cult following. HACI ABDULLAH LOKANTA €€ Map p244 ( % 0212-293 8561; www.haciabdullah. com.tr; Sakız Ağacı Caddesi 9a; veg portions ₺14 25, meat portions ₺32-37; h 11.30am-10.30pm; aWv ; m Taksim) This upmarket İstanbul in stitution (it was established in 1888) serves a good, albeit pricey, range of hazır yemek (ready-made food). There’s no alcohol, but the range of delicious desserts well and truly compensates (try the quince dessert

with clotted cream). Come for lunch rather than dinner and be prepared for the double whammy of cover and service charges. o ELEOS MEYHANE €€€ Map p248 ( % 0212-244 9090; www.eleos restaurant.com; 2nd fl, İstiklal Caddesi 231, Tünel; mezes ₺10-30, mains from ₺30; h 2.30pm midnight; aWc ; m Şişhane, j Tünel) Hid den upstairs in the shabby Hıdivyal Palas building, Eleos transports its diners from Beyoğlu to the Greek islands. A stylish blue and-white decor and fabulous Bosphorus view set the scene, and the food seals the deal – colourful mezes featuring plenty of herbs and garlic, tender octopus and ca lamari, perfectly grilled fish and fresh fruit to finish. Advance bookings essential. MEZE BY LEMON TREE MODERN TURKISH €€€ Map p248 ( % 0212-252 8302; www.mezze.com. tr; Meşrutiyet Caddesi 83b, Tepebaşı; mezes ₺14 39, mains ₺40-56, 4-course degustation menu for 2 ₺196; h 6pm-midnight; av ; m Şişhane, j Tünel) Chef Gençay Üçok creates some of the most interesting and delicious modern Turkish food seen in the city and serves it in an intimate restaurant opposite the Pera Palace Hotel. Regulars tend to opt for the degustation menu, or choose from the won derful array of hot and cold mezes rather than ordering mains. Bookings essential. SAHRAP MODERN TURKISH €€€ Map p248 ( % 0212-243 1616; www.sahrap restaurant.com; General Yazgan Sokak 13a, Asmalımescit; mezes ₺12-22, mains ₺28-42; h noon-11pm Mon-Sat, 6-11pm Sun; avc ; m Şişhane, j Tünel) Popular cookbook writer and TV chef Sahrap Soysal oversees the menu here, and the result is a tasty and well-priced introduction to modern Turkish cuisine. The two-level dining space is attrac tively decorated and Sahrap’s food is fresh and full of flavour, with an emphasis on legumes, seasonal vegetables and seafood. ASMALI CAVIT TURKISH €€€ Map p248 (Asmalı Meyhane; % 0212-292 4950; Asmalımescit Sokak 16, Asmalımescit; mezes ₺10 25, kebaps ₺30-45; h 10.30am-1.30am Mon-Sat; m Şişhane, j Tünel) Cavit Saatcı’s place is an old-style meyhane (tavern) that, like other old-timers on this street, has stood the test of time and retained a loyal local follow ing. The menu offers all the usual dishes (mezes, fried calamari, börek stuffed with meat, fried liver, kebaps). Tables are spread

Beyoğlu Eating