Istanbul Guide

140

and the healthy, seasonally driven menu is heavy on flavour and light on fuss – break fast is particularly delicious (we love the fruit smoothies and house-baked bread). DEMETI TURKISH €€€ Map p248 ( % 0212-244 0628; www.demeti.com. tr; 1st fl, Şimşirci Sokak 6, Cihangir; mezes ₺10 34, mains ₺34-42; h 4pm-2am; Wv ; m Taksim) This neighbourhood meyhane (tavern) has a friendly feel and simple but stylish decor. Reservations are a must if you want one of the four tables on the terrace, which have an unimpeded Bosphorus view. There’s occa sional live music (cover charge applies). 6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE There are hundreds of bars in Beyoğlu, with the major bar strips being Balo, Nevizade, Gönül and Sofyalı Sokaks. As a rule, drinks are much cheaper at street-level venues than at rooftop bars. Note that many of the Beyoğlu clubs close over the warmer months (June to September), when the party crowd moves down to Turkey’s southern coasts. BAR Map p248 ( % 0212-244-5151; www.unter.com.tr; Kara Ali Kaptan Sokak 4, Karaköy; h 9am-midnight Tue-Thu & Sun, to 2am Fri & Sat; W ; j Tophane) This scenester-free zone epitomises the new Karaköy style: it’s glam without trying too hard, and has a vaguely arty vibe. Ground floor windows open to the street in fine weather, allowing the action to spill outside during busy periods. Good cocktails and de cent wine by the glass are major draws, as is the varied food menu (breakfast ₺18 to ₺ 32, mains ₺ 27 to ₺ 48). DEM TEAHOUSE Map p248 ( % 0212-293 9792; www.demkarakoy. com; Hoca Tahsin Sokak 17, Karaköy; h 10am 11pm; j Tophane) As far from a traditional çay bahçesi as one can imagine, Dem serves 60 types of freshly brewed tea in fine china cups and with milk on request. A selection of panini, wraps, cakes and scones is also on offer, and everything is served on street Beyoğlu Drinking & Nightlife 6 Galata, Tophane & Karaköy o UNTER

side tables or under the ultra-chic Zettel’z 5 light fitting in the main space. RITIM GALATA BAR, CAFE Map p248 ( % 0212-292 4929; www.ritimgalata. com; Galata Kulesi Sokak 3, Galata; h 11am-11pm, later on Fri & Sat; W ; m Şişhane, j Tünel) Week days are relatively quiet at this friendly neighbourhood cafe/bar nestled in the shadow of the Galata Tower, but the action heats up when the DJ spins everything from house to pop on Friday and Saturday nights from 9pm. The menu is geared towards drinkers, being filled with cheap comfort food (burgers, pastas, fries). SENSUS WINE BAR WINE BAR Map p248 ( % 0212-245 5657; www.sensuswine. com; Büyük Hendek Sokak 5, Galata; h 1-11pm; W ; m Şişhane, j Tünel) Set in a stone base ment lined with wine bottles, this bar be neath the Anemon Galata Hotel has a great concept, but needs to work on its customer service. There are close to 300 bottles of local wine on the shelves, and you can en joy your choice with a cheese or şarkuterı (charcuterie) plate (₺26 to ₺44). BAR Map p248 ( % 0212-293 5656; www.miklarestaurant. com; Marmara Pera Hotel, Meşrutiyet Caddesi 15, Tepebaşı; h from 6pm Mon-Sat summer only; m Şişhane, L Tünel) It’s worth overlooking the occasional bit of uppity service at this stylish rooftop bar to enjoy excellent cocktails and what could be the best view in İstanbul. In winter the drinking action moves to the bar in the upmarket restaurant one floor down. o MANDA BATMAZ COFFEE Map p244 (Olivia Geçidi 1a, off İstiklal Caddesi; h 10am-11pm; m Şişhane, j Tünel) Bored with the brouhaha over modern-day coffee cul ture? Don’t care where your beans have been roasted, or whether your barista’s tattoos are on show? If so, this tiny coffee shop is for you. Serving Beyoğlu’s best Turkish coffee for over two decades, its cups of ultra-thick aromatic coffee are much cheaper than the indiffer ently made lattes ubiquitous elsewhere. SOLERA WINE BAR Map p244 ( % 0212-252 2719; Yeniçarşı Caddesi 44, Galatasaray; h 11am-2am; W ; m Şişhane, j Tünel) Stocking more than 300 Turkish wines and 6 İstiklal & Around o MIKLA