Istanbul Guide

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pouring an extraordinary 100 by the glass, this atmospherically lit wine cavern is the city’s best wine bar. Regulars tend to head here after work for a glass of wine accom panied by a cheese plate (₺22); many stay on for a perfectly cooked steak (₺35). Bookings are essential on Friday and Saturday night. ALEX’S PLACE BAR Map p248 (Gönül Sokak 7, Asmalımescit; h 6pm 1am Tue-Sat; m Şişhane, j Tünel) A hole-in the-wall speakeasy in the heart of the Asmalımescit entertainment precinct, this place is beloved of local bohemians who work in the arts and cultural sectors. American owner Alex Waldman is passion ate about cocktails and his craft creations have been known to convert beer and wine drinkers alike. CAFE GRAND BOULEVARD TEA GARDEN Map p244 (Hazzo Pulo Pasajı; h 8am-3am; m Şişhane, j Tünel) There aren’t as many traditional teahouses in Beyoğlu as on the Historic Peninsula, so this çay bahçesi (tea garden) in a picturesque cobbled courtyard fringed by secondhand bookshops and vin tage boutiques is beloved of locals. To access it from İstiklal Caddesi, head through the narrow passage full of tacky jewellery stands. 360 BAR Map p244 ( % 0533 691 0360; www.360istanbul. com; 8th fl, İstiklal Caddesi 163; h noon-2am Sun Thu, to 4am Fri & Sat; W ; m Şişhane, j Tünel) İstanbul’s most famous bar, and deservedly so. If you can score one of the bar stools on the terrace you’ll be happy indeed – the view is truly extraordinary. It morphs into a club after midnight on Friday and Saturday, when a cover charge of ₺50 applies (this includes one drink). The food is overpriced and under whelming – don’t bother with dinner. PARANTEZ BAR Map p248 ( % 0212-245 7513; www.parantezbistro. com; Sofyalı Sokak 20, Asmalımescit; h 10am 3am; m Şişhane, j Tünel) Asmalımescit’s most popular bar is tiny, so on weekend evenings the action spills out into Jurnal Sokak and a party atmosphere ensues. Fight your way to the bar to order a cocktail or bottled beer – if it’s too crowded there are plenty of other bars in the immediate vicinity. INDIGO CLUB Map p244 ( % 0212-244 8567; http://indigo-istanbul. com; 1st-5th fl, 309 Akarsu Sokak, Galatasaray; cover varies; h 11.30pm-5am Fri & Sat, closed

summer; m Şişhane, j Tünel) Its popularity has waxed and waned over the years, but Beyoğlu’s four-floor electronic music tem ple is back in big-time favour with the city’s dance-music enthusiasts. The program spotlights top-notch local and visiting DJs or live acts, focusing on house, tech house and tech disco, with an occasional electro rock number thrown into the mix. Smokers congregate on the upstairs terrace. LEB-I DERYA BAR Map p248 ( % 0212-293 4989; www.lebiderya.com; 6th fl, Kumbaracı İş Hanı, Kumbaracı Yokuşu 57, Galata; h 4pm-2am Mon-Thu, to 3am Fri, 10am 3am Sat, to 2am Sun; W ; m Şişhane, j Tünel) On the top floor of a dishevelled building off İstiklal, Leb-i Derya has wonderful views across to the Old City and down the Bospho rus, meaning that seats on the small outdoor terrace or at the bar are highly prized. Many people enjoy the pricey modern Mediterra nean food on offer, but we aren’t impressed, so only recommend it as a bar. RAVOUNA 1906 BAR Map p248 ( % 0212-924 8760; www.cafe.ravouna 1906.com; 7th fl, İstiklal Caddesi 201; h noon midnight Mon-Sat, 10am-midnight Sun; m Şişhane, j Tünel) A glass eyrie on the roof of a charm ing art nouveau building on Beyoğlu’s major boulevard, this comfortable bar/restaurant commands a panoramic view of the His torical Peninsula and Bosphorus and is a fabulous perch for those wanting to enjoy a sunset drink. It also offers a menu of in ternational dishes, including burgers (₺39), steaks (₺65) and salads (₺25 to ₺30). To ac cess the rooftop, enter the ground-floor cafe, head to the rear and continue up one set of stairs. An elevator will then take you the CLUB Map p244 ( % 0536 460 7137; 5th fl, Yenıçarşı Cad desi 38, Galatasaray; cover varies; h 10pm-4am Tue-Sat; m Șişhane, j Tünel) A magnificent view, large dance floor, decent sound sys tem and well-made cocktails are the draws at this popular temple to electronica. Check its Twitter and Facebook feeds for who is playing/spinning the deep house, techno and tech house soundtrack. KLOSTER CLUB Map p244 ( % 0533 258 9393; http://kloster. com.tr; Kamer Hatun Caddesi 10; cover varies; h 10pm-6am Wed-Sat; m Taksim) Three floors, three different stages and a famous rooftop rest of the way. CUE İSTIKLAL

Beyoğlu Drinking & Nightlife