Istanbul Guide

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tion screening classic, alternative and exper imental films in the Beyoğlu Cinema. MUNZUR CAFE & BAR LIVE MUSIC Map p244 ( % 0212-245 4669; www.munzur cafebar.com; Hasnun Galip Sokak 17, Galatasaray; h 1pm-4am, music from 9pm; m Taksim) Hasnun Galip Sokak is home to a number of Türkü evlerı, Kurdish-owned bars where musi cians perform live, emotion-charged halk meziği (folk music). This simple place, which is two decades old, has a regular line-up of singers and expert bağlama (lute) players. JOLLY JOKER LIVE MUSIC Map p244 ( % 0212-249 0749; www.jjistanbul. com; Balo Sokak 22; h from 10pm Wed-Sat, closed summer; m Taksim) The gig-goers among the lively multinational crowd here gravitate towards the upstairs bi-level performance hall, which hosts Turkish rock, alterna tive and pop outfits. Check the website for schedules and cover charges. 7 SHOPPING İstiklal Caddesi has a long history as the city’s most glamorous shopping strip, but has lost its sheen in recent years, probably due to the phenomenal popularity of the sleek shopping malls opening in the affluent suburbs north of Beyoğlu. You’ll find the city’s best book and music shops here, but not much else worthy of comment. Next to the Flower Passage (Çiçek Pasajı; p129), along Şahne Sokak, is Beyoğlu’s Fish Market (Balık Pazarı; p128), with stalls selling fruit, vegetables, caviar, pickles and other produce. Leading off the Fish Market is the neoclassical European Passage (Avrupa Pasajı; p128), a pretty passageway with a handful of shops selling tourist wares and antique prints. Aslıhan Pasajı, nearby, is a two-storey arcade bursting with secondhand books. The streets around Tünel Meydanı and Galata Kulesi Meydanı are being colonised by avant-garde fashion and homeware designers and make for exciting shopping. Between the two squares is Galipdede Caddesi, home to a major concentration of musical instrument shops. Antique stores can be found dotting the narrow winding streets of Çukurcuma, and small fashion ateliers are scattered across Tophane and the

desi 15, Tünel; ₺70; h performances 5pm Sun; m Şişhane, j Tünel) The 15th-century sema hane (whirling-dervish hall) at this tekke (dervish lodge) is the venue for a one-hour sema (ceremony) held on Sundays through out the year. Come early to buy your ticket. SALON LIVE MUSIC Map p248 ( % 0212-334 0700; www.saloniksv. com; ground fl, İstanbul Foundation for Culture & Arts, Sadi Konuralp Caddesi 5, Şişhane; h Oct-May; m Şişhane, j Tünel) This intimate performance space in the İstanbul Foundation for Culture & Arts (İKSV) building hosts live contem porary music (classical, jazz, rock and world music) as well as theatrical and dance per formances. Check its Facebook and Twitter feeds for program details and book through Biletix (p 40 ) or the venue’s box office. NARDIS JAZZ CLUB JAZZ Map p248 ( % 0212-244 6327; www.nardisjazz. com; Kuledibi Sokak 14, Galata; cover varies; h 9.30pm-12.30am Mon-Thu, 10.30pm-1.30am Fri & Sat, closed Jul & Aug; m Şişhane, j Tünel) Named after a Miles Davis track, this in timate venue near the Galata Tower is run by jazz guitarist Önder Focan and his wife Zuhal. Performers include gifted amateurs, local jazz luminaries and visiting interna tional artists. It’s small, so you’ll need to book if you want a decent table. There’s a limited dinner/snack menu. GARAJISTANBUL CULTURAL CENTRE Map p244 ( % 0212-244 4499; www.garajistanbul. org; Kaymakem Reşat Bey Sokak 11a, Galatasaray; m Şişhane, j Tünel) This performance space occupies a former car garage in a narrow street behind İstiklal Caddesi and is about as edgy as the city’s performance scene gets. It hosts contemporary dance performances, poetry readings, theatrical performances and live music (especially jazz). BORUSAN ART PERFORMING ARTS Map p248 (Borusan Sanat; % 0212-705 8700; www.borusansanat.com/en; İstiklal Caddesi 160a; m Şişhane, j Tünel) An exciting privately funded cultural centre on İstiklal, Borusan is housed in a handsome building and hosts classical, jazz, world and new music con certs in its music hall. The occasional dance performance is included in its schedule. BAŞKA SINEMA CINEMA Map p244 (www.baskasinema.com; Halep Pasajı, İstiklal Caddesi 62; m Taksim) Art-house opera

Beyoğlu Shopping