Istanbul Guide

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terrace make this temple to electronica the largest club in the city. There are regular appearances by European DJs – check the Facebook feed for details. TOPLESS TERAS BAR, CLUB Map p244 ( % 0532 384 1054; www.topless. com.tr; 6th fl, İstiklal Caddesi 12; h 7pm-2am; m Taksim) Amazing views and a deep house soundtrack are the draws at this rooftop venue above the Fitaş Cinema. HASPA GAY Map p244 ( % 0212-243 8601; 2nd fl, İpek Sokak 16, Taksim; h 8pm-2am; m Taksim) In an area with a few popular gay bars (including one on the floor above and another in nearby Büyük Parmakappı Sokak), this casual bar hosts live Turkish pop acts and the occa sional male belly dancer. URBAN BAR, CAFE Map p244 ( % 0212-252 1325; Kartal Sokak 6a, Gal atasaray; h 11am-1am; W ; m Taksim) A tranquil bolt hole in the midst of İstiklal’s mayhem, Urban is where the preclub crowd congre gates at night and where many of them can be found kicking back over a coffee during the day. The vaguely Parisian interior is a clever balance of grunge and glamour. TEK YÖN GAY Map p244 (http://clubtekyon.com; 1st fl, Si raselviler Caddesi 63, Taksim; h 10pm-5am; m Taksim) This sleek premises features the city’s largest gay dance floor as well as a garden popular with smokers and cruisers. The core clientele is hirsute and fashion- challenged (and that includes the drag queens). Cuddly bears abound. To find it, look for the ‘İstanbul Club’ sign. OFF PERA CLUB Map p248 ( % 0212-249 2697; Gönül Sokak 14a, Asmalımescit; no cover; h 10pm-4am Tue-Sat; m Şişhane, j Tünel) You’ll need to squeeze your way into this tiny club, but once in side your persistence is sure to pay off. The DJs perch on a balcony over the bar and the multi-aged crowd spills out onto the street to smoke and catch its breath. Go on a Tuesday night, when Turkish pop domi nates the sound system after midnight. ARAF CLUB Map p244 ( % 0212-244 8301; www.araf.com. tr; 5th fl, Balo Sokak 32; h 5pm-4am Tue-Sun; m Taksim) Grungy English teachers, Er-

asmus exchange students and Turkish- language students have long claimed this as their favoured destination, listening to world music and swilling some of the cheap est club beer in the city. No cover. MINIMÜZIKHOL CLUB Map p244 (MMH; % 0212-245 1718; www.mini muzikhol.com; Soğancı Sokak 7, Cihangir; no cover; h 10pm-late Fri & Sat; m Taksim) Once the mother ship for inner-city hipsters, this small, slightly grungy venue near Taksim isn’t the hotspot it once was, but retains a crew of devoted regulars. It’s best after 1am. 6 Çukurcuma & Cihangir SMYRNA BAR Map p248 ( % 0212-244 2466; Akarsu Yokuşu 29, Cihangir; h 10am-midnight; W ; m Taksim) The original boho bar on Cihangir’s main en tertainment strip, Smyrna has a relaxed at mosphere, retro decor and a self-consciously liter-arty clientele. If you decide to make a night of it here, there’s simple food available. CIHANGIR 21 BAR Map p248 ( % 0212-251 1626; Coşkun Sokak 21, Cihangir; h 9.30am-2.30am; W ; m Taksim) The great thing about this neighbourhood place is its inclusiveness – the regulars include black-clad boho types, besuited profession als, expat loafers and quite a few characters who defy categorisation. There’s beer on tap (Efes and Miller), a smokers’ section and a bustling feel after work hours; it’s quite laid-back during the day. 5 KAT BAR Map p244 ( % 0212-293 3774; www.5kat.com; 5th fl, Soğancı Sokak 7, Cihangir; h 5pm-2am Mon Fri, 10am-2am Sat, 11am-2am Sun; W ; m Taksim) This İstanbul institution has been around for over two decades and is a great alter native for those who can’t stomach the style overload at many of the high-profile Beyoğlu bars. In winter drinks are served in the boudoir-style bar on the 5th floor; in summer action moves to the outdoor roof terrace. Both have great Bosphorus views. 3 ENTERTAINMENT GALATA MEVLEVI MUSEUM PERFORMING ARTS Map p248 (Galata Mevlevihanesi Müzesi; www. galatamevlevihanesimuzesi.gov.tr; Galipdede Cad

Beyoğlu Entertainment