Istanbul Guide

145

m Şişhane, j Tünel) Established by American- German couple Matthias Weimer and Laura Parker, Seyahan works with Turkish artisans and two women’s cooperatives to produce handcrafted silver jewellery. There are two stores in the city – this boutique in side the Meşrutiyet Caddesi entrance to the Hazzo Pulo Pasajı and another in Galata FOOD Map p244 ( % 0212-244 2804; www.hacibekir.com. tr; İstiklal Caddesi 83; m Taksim) The Beyoğlu branch of the famous lokum (Turkish De light) shop. Stick with sade (plain) or go nutty with cevizli (walnut), fıstıklı (pista chio) or badem (almond). PANDORA BOOKS Map p244 ( % 0212-243 3503; www.pandora.com. tr; Büyük Parmakkapı Sokak 3, Taksim; h 10am 8pm Mon-Wed, to 9pm Thu-Sat, 1-8pm Sun; m Taksim) A long-standing business with three floors of books – head to the 3rd floor for English-language titles. TEZGAH ALLEY CLOTHING Map p248 (Terkoz Pasajı; Terkoz Cikmazı, off İstiklal Caddesi; h Mon-Sat; m Şişhane, j Tünel) Put your elbows to work fighting your way to the front of the tezgah (stalls) in this al leyway, which is heaped with clothing for under ₺20 per piece. Turkey is a major cen tre of European clothing manufacture, and the items here are sometimes factory run ons from designer or major chain-store orders. The ‘Terkos Pasajı’ sign marks the spot. HAFIZ MUSTAFA SWEETS Map p244 (İstiklal Caddesi 35, Taksim; h 8am 1am; m Taksim) The Beyoğlu branch of this much-loved sweets store, signed as ‘Hakkı Zade’, is close to Taksim Meydanı. 7 Çukurcuma & Cihangir OPUS3A MUSIC Map p248 ( % 0212-251 8405; www.opus3a.com; Cihangir Caddesi 3a, Cihangir; h 11am-8.30pm, to 9.30pm Jun-Aug; m Taksim) Those keen to supplement their CD or vinyl collections with some Turkish music should head to this large shop in Cihangir, where knowl edgeable, English-speaking staff can steer you towards the best local classical, jazz, alternative and pop recordings. (Map p248; Camekan Sokak 4j) . ALI MUHIDDIN HACI BEKIR

7 İstiklal & Around o NAHIL HANDICRAFTS, BATHWARE Map p244 ( % 0212-251 9085; www.nahil.com.tr; Bekar Sokak 17, Taksim; h 10am-7pm Mon-Sat; m Taksim) The felting, lacework, embroidery, all-natural soaps and soft toys in this lovely shop are made by economically disadvan taged women in Turkey’s rural areas. All profits are returned to them, ensuring that they and their families have better lives. DENIZLER KITABEVI MAPS Map p248 ( % 0212-249 8893; www.denizler kitabevi.com; İstiklal Caddesi 199a; h 10am-8pm Mon-Sat, noon-8pm Sun; m Şişhane, j Tünel) One of the few interesting shops remain ing on İstiklal, Denizler Kitabevi sells antique maps, books, prints, photographs and postcards. MEPHISTO MUSIC Map p244 ( % 0212-249 0696; www.mephisto. com.tr; İstiklal Caddesi 125; h 9am-midnight; m Taksim) If you develop a taste for local mu sic while you’re in town, this popular store is the place to indulge it. As well as a huge CD collection of Turkish popular music, there’s a select range of Turkish folk, jazz and classical music. It also stocks DVDs and has an upstairs cafe. There are other branches in Kadıköy (p 160 ) and Beşiktaş. MISELA FASHION & ACCESSORIES Map p248 ( % 0212-243 5300; www.misela istanbul.com; Meşrutiyet Caddesi 107e, Tepebaşı; h 11am-7pm Mon-Thu, to 8pm Fri, noon-8pm Sat; m Şişhane, j Tünel) No self-respecting local fashionista would be without a chic hand bag designed by local Serra Türker. Quality materials and workmanship are the hall marks, for which you will pay accordingly. ANTIJEN DESIGN CLOTHING Map p244 ( % 0212-251 8614; www.niluferkaraca. com.tr; Yenicarşı Caddesi 9, Galatasaray; h 10am 7pm Mon-Sat; m Taksim) Local designer Nilüfer Karaca creates sculptural pieces in muted tones that customers can purchase off the rack or have made to measure in two or three days. Her form-hugging frocks and statement winter coats are particularly

Beyoğlu Shopping

desirable. SEYAHAN

JEWELLERY Map p244 ( % 0212-243 6016; www.seyahan.com; Hazzo Pulo Pasajı; h 10am-7pm, to 9pm Jun-Aug;