Istanbul Guide

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2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES o KILIÇ ALI PAŞA HAMAMI

A LA TURCA CARPETS, ANTIQUES Map p244 ( % 0212-245 2933; www.alaturca house.com; Faikpaşa Sokak 4, Çukurcuma; h 10.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat; m Taksim) An tique Anatolian kilims and textiles are stacked alongside top-drawer Ottoman an tiques in this fabulous shop in Çukurcuma. This is the best area in the city to browse for antiques and curios, and A La Turca is probably the most interesting of its retail outlets. Ring the doorbell to gain entrance. MEKHANN TEXTILES Map p248 ( % 0212-249 7849; www.mekhann.com; Boğazkesen Caddesi 32a, Tophane; j Tophane) The Beyoğlu branch of the well-known Grand Bazaar shop is located close to the Tophane tram stop. MARIPOSA CLOTHING Map p248 ( % 0212-249 0483; www.atolye mariposa.com; Şimşirci Sokak 11a, Cihangir; h 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-8.30pm Sat & Sun; m Taksim) Designer Banu One turns out a particularly fetching line in floral frocks at her Cihangir atelier. Fashionistas will adore the fact that she not only makes to order, but also designs and tailors unique ensembles. As well as the dresses, coats and jackets on the racks, the shop sells pretty bedspreads and pillowslips. There’s another FOOD & DRINKS Map p248 (La Cave Şarap Evi; % 0212-243 2405; Sıraselviler Caddesi 109, Cihangir; h 9.30am 8pm; m Taksim) Its enormous selection of local and imported wine makes La Cave a good stop for tipplers. The staff can dif ferentiate a Chablis from a Chardonnay, and though they don’t speak much Eng lish, they are always happy to give advice on the best Turkish bottles to add to your cellar. Beyoğlu Sports & Activities branch in Teşvikiye. LA CAVE WINE SHOP

HAMAM Map p248 ( % 0212-393 8010; http://kilicalipasa hamami.com; Hamam Sokak 1, off Kemeraltı Caddesi, Tophane; traditional hamam ritual ₺310, massages ₺220-520; h women 8am-4pm, men 4.30-11.30pm; j Tophane) It took seven years to develop a conservation plan for this 1580 Sinan-designed building and complete the meticulous restoration. Fortunately, the result was well worth waiting for. The hamam’s interior is simply stunning and the place is run with total professionalism, ensuring a clean and enjoyable Turkish bath experience. ARTWALK ISTANBUL WALKING ( % 0537 797 7525; www.artwalkistanbul.com; group tours ₺75-100 per person, private tours by negotiation; h Apr-Dec) Saliha Yavuz and her small team of curators, artists and crit ics offer guided English-language visits to commercial and artist-run galleries, as well as artists’ studios, providing an excellent introduction to the city’s vibrant contempo rary-art scene. Tours concentrate on neigh bourhoods, with gallery walks in Galata, Tophane, Taksim and Nişantaşı, and a tour of artists’ studios in Kadıköy. İSTANBUL ON FOOD WALKING ( % 0538 966 7671; http://istanbulonfood.com; tour US$100) New to the city’s increasingly cluttered food-tour scene, this small outfit offers a popular four-hour ‘Twilight at Tak sim’ tour with a maximum of seven par ticipants. You’ll wander through the side streets on either side of İstiklal Caddesi sampling plenty of street food and kebaps before popping into a meyhane (tavern) for a rakı and finishing with baklava at Karaköy Güllüoğlu.