Istanbul Guide

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1 SIGHTS DOLMABAHÇE PALACE See p 149. NATIONAL PALACES PAINTING MUSEUM

After his imperial guest departed, Abdül Hamit became quite attached to his ‘rustic’ creation and decided to live here himself, forsaking the palaces of Dolmabahçe and Çırağan on the Bosphorus shore. İSTANBUL NAVAL MUSEUM MUSEUM Map p250 (İstanbul Deniz Müzesi; % 0212-327 4345; www.denizmuzeleri.tsk.tr; Beşiktaş Cad desi 6, Beşiktaş; adult/student & child ₺6.50/ free; h 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat & Sun mid-May–mid-Oct, 9am-5pm Tue-Sun mid-Oct– mid-May; g Bahçeşehir Ünv.) Established over a century ago to celebrate and commemo rate Turkish naval history, this museum has been undergoing a prolonged and major renovation. Its architecturally note worthy copper-clad exhibition hall opened in 2013 and showcases a spectacular col lection of 19th-century imperial caïques, ornately decorated wooden rowboats used by the royal household. Temporary exhibi tions take place in the downstairs gallery. The next stage of the renovation will see the museum’s original building reopened with exhibits including ‘The Navy in the Turkish Republic’ and ‘Cartography and Navigational Instruments’; the latter is likely to focus on the achievements of the 16th-century cartographer Piri Reis. In the square opposite the museum is the Sinan-designed tomb of the admiral of Süleyman the Magnificent’s fleet, Bar baros Heyrettin Paşa (1483–1546), better known as Barbarossa. The museum is lo cated on the Bosphorus shore close to the Beşiktaş bus station and ferry dock. Across Beşiktaş Caddesi, dolmuşes (minibuses) run from outside Akbank up to Taksim Meydanı (Taksim Sq; ₺ 2.50) and to Har biye, where Turkey’s major military mu seum, the Askeri Müze (p 151 ), is located. The Ottoman military band known as the Mehter performs there most days at 3pm and 4pm. ORTAKÖY MOSQUE MOSQUE Map p162 (Ortaköy Camii, Büyük Mecidiye Camii; İskele Meydanı, Ortaköy; g Ortaköy) This ele gant baroque-style structure was designed by Nikoğos Balyan, one of the architects of Dolmabahçe Palace, and built for Sultan Abdül Mecit I between 1853 and 1855. The modern Bosphorus Bridge) looms behind the recently restored mosque, providing a fabulous photo opportunity for those wanting to illustrate İstanbul’s ‘old meets new’ character.

PALACE

GALLERY Map p250 (Milli Saraylar Resim Müzesi; % 0212 236 9000; www.millisaraylar.gov.tr; Dolmabahçe Caddesi, Beşiktaş; admission ₺20; h 9am-4pm Tue, Wed & Fri-Sun; g Akaretler, j Kabataş) Reo pened in 2014 after a long restoration, the Veliaht Dairesi (Apartments of the Crown Prince) in Dolmabahçe Palace now show case the palace’s collection of paintings. Highlights include the downstairs ‘Turkish Painters 1870–1890’ room, which includes two Osman Hamdi Bey works, and the up stairs ‘İstanbul views’ room, which is home to 19th-century street scenes by Germain Fabius Brest. The gallery is included in the Dolmabahçe ticket price and can be ac cessed from the palace grounds. PALACE COLLECTIONS MUSEUM MUSEUM Map p250 (Saray Koleksiyonları Müzesi; % 0212 236 9000; www.millisaraylar.gov.tr; Beşiktaş Cad desi, Beşiktaş; adult/child ₺5/2; h 9am-5pm Tue Sun; g Akaretler, j Kabataş) Occupying the warehouse-like Dolmabahçe Palace kitch ens, this museum exhibits items used in the royal palaces and pavilions during the late Ottoman Empire and early Turkish Repub lic. It is a fascinating hotchpotch of some 5000 objects, including palace portraits and photos, teasets, tiled Islamic wall inscrip tions, prayer rugs and embroidery. Hereke carpets and Yıldız Porselen Fabrikası (p 151) porcelain are also here. Entrance is free with the Dolmabahçe Palace Selâmlık and Harem joint ticket. YILDIZ ŞALE MUSEUM Map p250 (Yıldız Chalet Museum; % 0212-327 2626; www.millisaraylar.gov.tr) Originally an imperial hunting lodge, this oft-extended Ottoman guesthouse has hosted royalty galore. Built for Sultan Abdül Hamit II in 1880, the şale (chalet) was closed to the public at the time of research, but is well worth a visit should it reopen. The building is at the top of the hill in Yıldız Park, enclosed by a wall. After be ing expanded and renovated for the use of Kaiser Wilhelm II of Germany in 1889, it underwent a second extension in 1898 to accommodate a huge ceremonial hall. Beşiktaş, Nişantaşı & Ortaköy Sights